Replaced the electronic control unit because control lights did not function correctly although I could start the fill and drain.
The new control unit does not even do this. All that happens is the normal cycle light blinks in the locked or open position.
Any ideas as to what else other problems to look for? Is the replacement unit faulty?
Here are your parts
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Electronic control assembly, part number: AP3775964
Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208269519.pdf
[COLOR=“Blue”]Any ideas as to what else other problems to look for? [/COLOR]
Try running diagnostics.
I would check the switch outputs from the keyboard with a meter.
Sometimes newer revisions of boards incorporate different diagnostic routines and this may be why your symptoms changed.
[COLOR=“Blue”]Is the replacement unit faulty?[/COLOR]
Cannot say but if the keypad checks out OK the odds are high that it does have a problem.
I want to be certain I understand your reply. If the switches check out OK then does that mean the control unit is faulty?
Also does the fact that, with the old control unit, all the switches appear to light up when you touch them indicate the keypad is OK.
Is there a manual the can demonstrate testing the keyboard? It may be worth buying based on how often I had to replace parts for this machine.
[COLOR=“Blue”]If the switches check out OK then does that mean the control unit is faulty?[/COLOR]
Not 100 % but is does put the control board at the top of the list as a possible cause. This problem is always a bit of a crap shoot so you are trying to narrow the odds.
[COLOR=“Blue”]Also does the fact that, with the old control unit, all the switches appear to light up when you touch them indicate the keypad is OK.[/COLOR]
It is a good indication that the keypad is OK if the keys light the correct lights and only the correct lights. But I thought you said they were not operating correctly in your first post.
[COLOR=“Blue”]Is there a manual the can demonstrate testing the keyboard?[/COLOR]
No but I may be able to explain it. The diodes (D’s) pass current only in one direction (into the arrow) so it makes a difference which lead (polarity) is where. Set your meter to a 2 K ohm scale.
As an example to check the China key.
With the black lead on P1-6 and red lead on P1-13 the resistance should drop when you push the China key.
The circuit path is P1-6 through D5 (diode) through SW14 and out P1-13.
You may have to swap the meter lead locations to get a reading, it depends on the meter.
[COLOR=“Blue”]It may be worth buying based on how often I had to replace parts for this machine.[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the above