I have an approximately 2.5 year old Maytag electric MER5755QAW. Two days ago my wife was baking and she gave quite a yelp when she saw a bright flash from the base of the oven and heard a quick buzzing humm sound. The oven’s bake and broil elements no longer work. The cooktop, clock, control panel, and oven light all operate “normally”.
I have tried to read several posts to try and figure out problem. It would be nice if just elements need to be replaced, but why would both not work? This leads me to think maybe problem is not elements, and maybe problem is thermal fuse??
My question is what do you think problem is and is it worth fixing? I would also be curious what I should expect to pay to have fixed if it is not something I can handle myself?
[COLOR=#333333]The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter – How to check continuity with Ohmmeter.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]I believe the 2.5 years old range is worth to fix but your decision should be based on condition of the unit.[/COLOR]
I recommended to check the heat elements mostly to make sure there is no short on ground. For the same reason you have to check the wires on the back.
There is very big chance that the control board is shorted out and has to be replaced and I would like to prevent possible damage to the new control board if there is a short on ground.
I recommended to check the heat elements mostly to make sure there is no short on ground. For the same reason you have to check the wires on the back.
There is very big chance that the control board is shorted out and has to be replaced and I would like to prevent possible damage to the new control board if there is a short on ground.
Gene.[/quote]
Gene,
Thanks so much for your advice. Sorry for my long delay, but here is what I have found.
With a digital meter set to 200 ohm the top element reads 15.8
The bottom element reads open
I took out the oven cavity floor to inspect the bottom element and it is literally severed in one spot.
Does this mean that I need just replace the bottom element?
I wanted to add that there appears to be scorching near the oven light inlet(light does still work). I check continuity on that too and it reads 26. Unsure if scorching was related to bake element failure.
When I checked continuity did I also check for “short on ground” as you advised to check for. Sorry, I am knew to this.
The Bake heating element has to be replaced. No doubt about it.
The part number for the Bake heating element is AP3860007
To check for “short on ground” you have to put one of the test probes on testing part terminal and touch with the second test probe any metal body of this part.
Thanks for the reply. I will go ahead and order the bake element. One question before I do, why would the broil element not come on? Is this just due to the bake elements failure?
I received the bake element today. I installed it and the oven does not heat up. When I set the control panel to bake it just display initial 100 degree reading and does not increase. It does make the click sounds if you increase the preheat temp setting, but never heats up
The Bake element out of the box reads 16ohm, I thougt it was supposed to be about 18.6:confused:
I, of course have no idea what to do now. The cooktop still works. Here are a couple pics of the new element and the connection on the rear of the unit.
Looks like the oven control board (clock) got damaged when the bake element shorted out.
Gene.[/quote]
Gene,
Thanks for your reply. Is the clock something I can replace myself? would you advise doing it or is it likely if I replace the clock something else could be wrong? Sorry to be a pest, but like mant today I am cash strapped and want to make wise decisions from a money stand point.
The clock is not too difficult to replace yourself. Remove the rear control panel cover to access the clock. Remove one wire at a time from the old clock and connect to the new one.
Nobody can tell you what else could be wrong with your range, but it is not very old and a new range will cost you much more than 160 bucks to fix this one.
Gene, thanks so much for your guidance. I ordered the clock today. It’s been a long time with no oven. I will post my results once I have the clock/cotrol board.
The clock is not too difficult to replace yourself. Remove the rear control panel cover to access the clock. Remove one wire at a time from the old clock and connect to the new one.
Nobody can tell you what else could be wrong with your range, but it is not very old and a new range will cost you much more than 160 bucks to fix this one.
Gene.[/quote]
Gene,
Well I put the clock in. Tried the oven and lo and behold it lit the bake element and started to heat up. Then I did something incredibly stupid. I started to put the metal back panel bacl on without unplugging the oven.
There was a spark and when I checked out what happened it looks as though the lead that goes to the stove top “ON” indicator made contact with the back metal plate and soldered itself right to it.
I dont know if the oven still works because I have not plugged it back in. My question is can the oven work with that indicator light connection bypassed? What do I with the disconnected wire? Can I get the metal clip piece at a hardware store and reattach it? Resize of PB132964.JPG (65.3 KB) Resize of PB132965.JPG (37.0 KB) Resize of PB132966.JPG (59.2 KB)
It probably will work without this indicator light. At least you can try. Insulate all wires, using an electric tape and turn it on. This light is probably gone.
Gene,
thanks for your reply. I cut back the two wires that would hav attache dto one of the leads to the light and I wrapped them in electrical tape. The oven appears to still work and the cooktop but neither the cooktop “on” or the “hot surface” indicators work. No big loss as I am just happy to have an oven again. Thanks for all your help. I hope “appliance parts pros” pays you!
This was a great thread. I had the same problem last week; while cooking dinner I heard a buzz, pop from the stove and the lights flickered in the house. I checked the stove and it was no longer on.
After Reading this thread. I unplugged the stove!
First I replaced the bottom element by removing the racks and the two screws on the bottom cover plate at the back of the inside the oven. Next I removed the cover plate by lifting up on the sides. Once removed, the burner was clearly blown so I bought a new burner at the local Maytag store and installed it in about 20 mins.
However I still had no heat from the top or bottom element.
I then ordered a new control unit - Part Number 74009211
I found the control unit for various prices on the internet from 115 US to 225 CAD.
www.**************************.com seemed to be the cheapest, but I actually ordered it from a friend of a friend direct from the manufactor for the employee price of 88 CAD with tax and shipping.
Unscrewed the old control unit by removing the top cover at the back of the oven (use 1/4 socket) and then 4 phillips screws holding the unit in. Screwed the new unit in and then removed each of the wires one at time and pluging them into the new unit that was already attached.
Put the cover plate back on and then plugged the stove back in and everything was working fine.
Thanks again for previous threads! Saved myself a bundle. Sears wanted 80 CAD just to come out and diagnosis the problem before any parts and labour.
