Last week I noticed that my dryer had shut off halfway through its drying cycle. After some checking I found that it had tripped the breaker. I reset it and discovered that it wasn’t heating up. After checking all the thermostats, fuses, and the heating element I ordered a replacement high limit kit that included the high limit cutoff and a thermostat. I replaced them and it heats up now, but I noticed that the element now kicks on when the knob is turned, regardless of whether the start button is pushed or not. It also throws a pretty big spark off the switch when I turn it to the off position.
Is it safe to assume that the knob is bad? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Just got the new element in today and installed it. It doesn’t heat up at all. I reinstalled the old element and it did the same as before so is it safe to assume I recieved a bad heating element? Or do I need to start looking elsewhere for the problem?
Sounds like you are only getting one leg of power to the heating element. Need to check for 240vac at the cord connection block on the back of the dryer. If you have 240vac there. unplug dryer and closely inspect the connections on that terminal block looking for melted/burned wiring/terminals. If all good, the problem may be at the motor. One leg of power to the heat element goes through a switch in the motor which is closed only when the motor is running. With the dryer unplugged, you can check continuity across this switch by measuring across the two red wires and activating the switch manually with a screwdriver pushing the disc that operates the switch.
I tested at the block and got the following results:
Ground to A - 124
Ground to B - Nothing
Ground to C - 50
A to B - 124
A to C - 67
B to C - 50
I also noticed wire C looked a little discolored and corroded. I’ve attached a picture, and I’m referring to the terminals from left to right. IMG_0868.JPG (95.3 KB)
