the push to start botton.door switch, thermal fuse and all t-stats test ok. I found that the timer has 120 volts but no neutral. I supplied neutral to the timer and it began turning but the dryer still doesn’t run. I believe the timer gets the neutral thru the start switch on the motor. Could someone please help?:mad:
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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RED4440VQ1 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com
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[COLOR=“DarkRed”]I found that the timer has 120 volts but no neutral. I supplied neutral to the timer and it began turning but the dryer still doesn’t run. I believe the timer gets the neutral thru the start switch on the motor. [/COLOR]
The above is a bit confusing because in order to get 120 volts you have to have Neutral unless it is a 4 wire hookup. Then you may see it if measuring to the unit’s frame.
The timer motor runs off of 240 volts.
In timed dry it gets power directly from the line so if it does not advance in this mode you either have a power problem or a timer problem.
From your description I would put my money on the power.
I would start by checking the power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR=“Red”]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
EED4300.pdf (548.9 KB)
I have 240 volts at terminal block. the diagram looks like the timer runs on 120 volts
I have 240 volts at terminal block. My timer is not turning because L2 is not supplying 120 volts to the timer motor. It apparrently goes thru contacts M1 & M2 of the motor. what can I di to make those contacts close.
There is no real way to force that centrifugal switch closed.
One thing to note though is that L2 has nothing to do with your main motor.
It runs off of L1 to Neutral.
I was thinking that it was L1 that was the problem.
Your motor circuit is:
Neutral , Door Switch , Push To Start Switch , centrifugal motor switch 5M , Main and Start motor windings , Thermal Fuse , Timer contacts B/C , L1
When the motor start the centrifugal switch switches to 6M this disconnects the start winding and also provides a parallel circuit path for the Push to Start Switch so you can let go of it and the unit keeps running.
Also the 2m/1M centrifugal switch closes so the timer advances and the heater comes on. This ensures that the heater does not come on until there is air flow.
so what is the solution ? Since contacts 1M & 2M (centrifical ?) don’t close what could be the problem ? Is the motor bad ? What starts it so the switch closes ?
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]so what is the solution ?[/COLOR]
I do not know
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]
Since contacts 1M & 2M (centrifical ?) don’t close what could be the problem[/COLOR]
I am not sure that they do not close.
The motor must be running for them to close.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]Is the motor bad ?[/COLOR]
Do not know
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]
What starts it so the switch closes ?[/COLOR]
The Push To Start switch starts the motor.
When the motor get close to operating speed then the centrifugal mechanism in the motor moves and activates the switches.
I think I am starting to confuse you more than help you.
Did this dryer ever run at this location, something seems very weird.
I do not know but perhaps I have the wrong wiring diagram!!
Earlier you said “I have 240 volts at terminal block. the diagram looks like the timer runs on 120 volts” but the diagram I have shows it is 240 volts.
Also you said that the timer motor ran when you applied Neutral to it and it should not at least according to the wiring diagram I have.
The timer circuit is L1, Timer Motor , timer contacts T/F , centrifugal switch 1M/2M , L2
I do not think that a 240 volt timer motor would run on 120 volts, it would just sit there and buzz but I could be wrong about this.
So lets re-start and see if we can get somewhere.
Unplug the unit and tape one meter lead to the L1 on the line cord and leave it there.
Set the timer to timed dry mid-cycle, door closed and set your meter to the most sensitive scale (usually 200 ohms).
Now measure to C on the timer, should be 0 ohms.
Then measure to B on the time, again should be 0 ohms.
Then measure to both sides of the thermal fuse, both should be 0 ohms.
Now measure to the W or W-R side of the Push to Start Switch should be a couple ohms. This is the motor’s windings.
Then measure to the BK of the Push To Start Switch. Should be infinite ohms. Push the switch and it should drop to the couple ohms you saw in the previous measurement.
Measure at the NO side of the Door Switch should be a couple ohms with start switch pushed.
Measure at the COM side of the door switch reading should be the same as previous.
Now measure at the Neutral on the line cord again it should be a couple ohms when the start switch is pushed.
If all the above is OK then I am stumped as your motor circuit checks out OK.
So either there is a power problem or the motor is no good.
The problem I see is that the motor has continuity and usually if at least one winding is OK it will buzz as it tries to start.