My dryer does not produce heat, i can smell gas too. What can be a problem?
Voytek,
You most likely have a weak, malfunctioning igniter.
A weak igniter could start the ignition procedure and drop out before the gas is ignited.
You could also have a weak flame due to low/weak gas pressure or a dirty oriface, if it’s been a while since the unit was run last.
You should be able to remove the lower panel and observe the gas valve ignition procedure.
Good Luck,
Thanks for your advice. That exactly was my first tought, but I am not a specialist in this matter. Now I am more confident, I will try to fix my dryer and let you know how I did. Thanks.
I did replace an ignitor. Dryer seams to work, but I noticed that some time, when I start the dryer, the ignitor will glow red, then switch off without gas to be ignited. I will smell gas in the drum. I will stop the dryer. Then start it again, this time gas will ignite and dryer will work OK. Could this be a symptom of bad flame sensor? Should I replace it? Please advice…
Voytek,
When the burner does ignite,
Do you have a good, long, blue flame, or does it seem to diminish ?
No, your flame sensor would not be the problem, based on your description,
a bad flame sensor, would not allow the igniter to glow, or would not trip the gas valve to release gas .
We’re down to :
Weak gas supply
Probable weak solenoids on the gas valve.
Replace the coil kit, at this point.
Ok, I replaced coils, this time. At first I thought it is fixed. But second time I was using dryer it start with glowing ignitor, but gas seam to start flowing too late. No flame but gas smell… I switch off dryer, then start again, this time flame was OK. Strong. So some time it works as should, some time not. What could be a problem? Bad “new” coils?.. Please help.
Voytek,
You do have the proper installation and gas supply line ( 1/2" pipe and shut off valve at the wall, and a 3/8" gas supply line from the shut off to the dryer gas line connection, correct ?
As long as you installed the coils in the same manner as the original, and the coil plunger shield(stainless stell ring) on the 3 terminal coil remained on the plunger, you did everything correctly.
Are you using Natural gas, or LP gas ?
Sure sounds like a GAS flow/pressure problem, or a bad gas valve, an internal failure.
You may need to have the gas pressure to the dryer checked by the Gas supply company(Nat. gas should be 3.5 to 4 WCI at the test port on the valve and 10 WCI on LP gas).
Let us know what you find,
Yes, I replaced coils accordingly. I did not noticed the shield on 3 prong coil at first. I was running dryer without this shield. After your last post I looked inside removed coil and found the shield. I reinstalled the shield. Now, dryer start as supposed to. First firing is OK. Then timer switched off the flame. After couple of moments, ignitor glow again , then start faiding, I can hear gas flowing but no flame. I stopped the druer by opening the door. I can smell gas inside. When I start dryer again, same thing first time it works, then second, no flame… Do you think, I could destroyed the coil, by not putting the shield there, and now even I did replace shield it does not work properly?
Voytek,
No, I doubt that the missing plunger sleeve, damaged the new coils,or plunger.
The purpose for the sleeve is to delay the activation of the two coils at the same time.
I doubt that you have a bad flame sensor, it still cycles the igniter off and on,
It could be weak but not likely, at this point.
You may want to remove the gas valve and burner assembly,
Remove the brass orifice and check the orifice and valve openning for debris or spider webs.
Otherwise , we’re back to an internal failure in the gas valve (replace valve) or low gas pressure to the unit.
I’ve bought whole gas valve you had recommended. How I can remove the compression nut? It is very tight. Can I use WD-40 on this?
Voytek,
You could use WD40, but it is not usually needed.
Yes, it is a very tight fit, it’s a soft brass thread going into a "pot metal"body.
Your best bet, is to find an allen wrench, that fits the internal pattern of the connector, and use that to remove and install the part on the new valve.
You might want to use pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads to insure a leak free connection.