Onset of the problem: Dryer loaded and operating, wife smells what she describes as burning rubber, checks dryer and finds outer cabinet is hot to touch, opens door dryer stops. Now its husbands (my) problem. Unit will run, igniter will not glow. Continuity OK @ flame sensor, OHMs good @ igniter, thermal fuse OK. I have 120V to “ground” found at igniter connector with door switch jumped and drive motor running (belt off drum). No 120V across igniter connector? Appears neutral is missing? Traced neutral back to multi-pin connector on motor. Wiring diagram shows a NO contact between 2M (source) to 1M igniter (opposite ends of the connector) for neutral. Contact appears to be internal to the motor? It was late so I didn’t look at the 2M source side to see if my neutral was there.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Wiring MGDC300XW1.pdf (602.0 KB)
Motor switch is within the motor wiring receptacle. It is operated by a centrifugal mechanism in the motor on the rotor shaft. You can operate this mechanism manually using a screwdriver to push on the disc that operates a lever that operates the switch.
Eric
Thanks Eric, I give that a try along with checking the incoming neutral to the motor centrifugal switch, something I neglected to try yesterday.
Ok so I push the clutch disc and I get continuity across the contacts of the centrifugal switch. Run the dryer and now getting the 120V @ the connector of the igniter. Put everything back together for a trial, no glow 
Anyway now I’m toasted for tonight after working all day, then coming home to play with this unit. The only other straw to grasp is that I am getting voltage with not enough current to make the glow? I do recall reading in one of the other posts that dirty pitted contacts on a flame sensor could reduce the current needed to get the igniter hot? Going to give that a shot with a jumper tomorrow, any idea on jumper wire size? I’m thinking #14 solid copper ought to do. Any comments on the flame sensor possibility and the jumper try?
Thanks & Good night!
Joe
Not likely the flame sensor. More likely a bad ignitor. If ignitor was good and flame sensor had dirty contact, there would be a voltage drop across those bad contacts and voltage at ignitor would not be 120vac. If you have 120vac across ignitor (with ignitor connected) and it doesn’t glow, then it’s bad. Probably broken as they are very fragile. If you are unplugging the ignitor to check voltage, that doesn’t tell you everything. You must check voltage while it’s connected. If voltage is low, then you know you have a bad connection somewhere (motor switch or flame sensor or elsewhere). To determine where problem is requires checking voltage across those components with everything connected and dryer running. If there is significant voltage across the motor switch for example, then those contacts are faulty.
Eric
6:00am EST, not one to give up I checked the forum right out of bed! The igniter could be faulted, but is brand new. I replaced it when I started troubleshooting because I had 120V to ground at the connector so I figured it was open. I’m going to take your tips & advice and go at it again tonight with DVM in hand! At this point I think I can have the drum out in 7 minutes flat! I’ll also shut down the gas this time just incase I get “the glow” The wife is getting tired of the laundry mat dryer routine!
Pulled the drum, jumped the door switch and turned on the dryer. Black DVM lead to ground. Used the other DVM lead to check for V before and after flame sensor, igniter, & cent switch on motor getting 121V anywhere I touch. New igniter @ 61.5 ohms, original igniter I though was bad @ 102.6 ohms, near 0 ohms at flame sensor and cent switch. Main sol coil @ 1.3k ohms assist sol coil (3pins) @ .58k, 1.9k, & 1.3k. using all pin combinations, any suggestions? 
Am I doing something wrong? I hate to give up now especially since I’ve become so proficient is disassembling the dryer in record time!
Thanks
Joe maybe I can’t fix everything?
You have an open neutral. You should read 120vac on one side of the ignitor only. The other side is neutral when motor is running. You would read 120vac on both sides if neutral is open somewhere. Most likely the motor switch or connector.
Eric
The open neutral was the thermal cutout on the back of the dryer hot air inlet duct. Traced it that far and then jumped it an the igniter started to glow right away. It appears there is also a hi temp switch in series with the fused cut out device and it is recommended that also be replaced. I will do that. All my ducting is clean so I’m not sure why this would occur? My wife says that the dryer occasionally feels like it is running hot according to touching the cabinet. The only theory I could come up for this occasional heat with was that a very lightweight article of clothing would get stuck across the exit vent inside the drum restricting the air flow? I plan on replacing the thermal unit Friday so if anyone has comments on what else to look for as the cause of the thermal fuse opening please let me know.
Thanks
joe
Not making sense. Thermal cutoff is not in the neutral circuit, it’s in the hot side. If it was open, you would not read voltage anywhere around the ignitor, solenoid coils or flame sensor. Thermal cutoff is last line of defense and should only open if hi limit thermostat fails which is why you should replace that as well if cutoff opens. Did you check for lint buildup inside the blower housing and lint chute?
Eric
Not sure on this either but it is open and after jumping it the igniter started to glow right away. About the lint issue, I check it regularly as my wife occasionally tells me that the dryer cabinet feels hot to her while drying clothes. I never find anything in the exhaust duct system.
Thanks
joe
With the timer on, what is the voltage to ground at the thermal cutoff black wire?
Eric
At work now on the east coast so I going to explain exactly how I got to that sensor. Jumped door switch, drum removed, started dryer on high heat when troubleshooting. Had a DVM lead on the white leg of igniter (L1) other lead to ground got 120V. Moved from ground to neutral red wire no 120V, check through centrifugal switch, up to temp selector to timer, no neutral no 120V. Popped the back off the cabinet seeing the switch on the duct with a red wire on it, I tried and got nothing, jumping to the other side of the switch, a red/white wire, hit it and saw 120V. Since I was already on L1 with the other lead this could only be a neutral or a ground? Jumper the red to red/white got the glow.The red/white is the jumper between the 2 sensors.
Sounds like you have reverse polarity to the dryer. Either the dryer power cord is hooked up wrong or the wall receptacle is wrong. Dryer will work either way but this condition should be corrected. That’s why I asked to check voltage to ground at thermal cutoff black wire with timer on. If it’s zero, your running on reverse polarity. This is why, with open thermal cutoff, you are reading 120vac to ground everywhere around the ignitor, flame sensor and solenoids. With no current flow due to open cutoff, there is no voltage drop across these components.
Eric
Thanks for the polarity information explanation. I’ll concentrate on getting the dryer back in operation then figuring out the polarity of the plug/outlet. I will get back to the forum on the polarity issue as it is something that rarely occurs I’m sure.
Thanks
joe
Eric, you were right on about the neutral. The dryer is a little to far from the outlet and there is a 5 ft extension cord created from a heavy duty appliance cord (fridge or room AC unit) molded plug one end with female added to the other end. That was the crossover point to reverse the AC. Corrected that! Thermal repair kit is on order, all that remains is why it opened? All the obvious lint inspections of the exhaust system were negative. During troubleshooting I verified the fan is working, blowing great. Is there anything I should be looking for after replacing the thermal switch and fuse? I’ll be happy not having to run out to the laundry matt to dry clothes, and I want this repair to last. FYI, I had to replace the other thermal fuse on the outlet duct this past july again no lint found anywhere?
Thanks
joe
You might want to just go ahead and replace the operating thermostat. This cycles the burner on/off during the cycle which regulates the heat.
Eric
Would that be the switch on the exhaust side if the dryer duct, mounted next to the fusible link for hi temperature? As stated earlier, I’d hate to fix this only to have it reoccur down the road.
Thanks
joe
Yes, that’s it.
Eric
Eric, Thank you for your help, I’ really did appreciate learning more about the workings of a dryer. FYI, all temperature control related parts are in place 
and the dryer is humming along!
thanks again
joe