Dryer Control Board LEDs not lighting up

[nsilvestristd]

Brand: Kenmore
Model Number: 41784052500
Main Symptom: Not Turning On
What happens & when: The dryer was working a while ago but it would not shut off via the timer. I had it unplugged and did not use it for a while and when I tried to use it again I got no LED lights on the control board. I get 240 volts to the terminal and when I unplug the red and black wiring harness clip at the top I only get about 60v, I’ve tested Thermistor and Heat Limiter Fuse for Continuity and got a reading. Tested the control board main leads (Red and Bblack and got no continuity reading) but i think I may have tested the wrong leads for this. I ordered a refurbished control board from eBay and when I installed that still no LED lights lighting up on the control board. The light that turns on when the door opens is not turning on and I thought its a bad bulb but after this I am unsure if its something else. I also tested the door swtich for contiuity and it also gave a signal.

I’ve added some pictures to help with the troubleshooting and also to the parts i tested, I’m not 100% sure that the 2 pictures shows the thermistor and heat limiter, I’ve read that if these are bad the dryer wont even get power but like I said I got readings when I tested for continuity.

I’m pretty good with my hadsn, journeyman electrician, and have worked on several appliances of my own in the past but this one has me stumped. Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated.

Error Code (if any): No LED lights to tell. I did try holding the Cancel and Select button for both 3 seconds and 6 seconds with the Selection Knob set to the 12 o’clock position and 3 o’clock positions respectfully for both error code readings and function testing but nothing happens with the LED board.
Parts or tests already tried: Tested Thermistor and Heat Limiter Fuse for Continuity and got a reading. Tested the control board main leads (Red and Bblack and got no continuity reading) but i think I may have tested the wrong leads for this. I also tested the door swtich for coninuity and got a signal.
Photos / video link:

[DavidP_APP_Team]

Hello, let’s start with the basics. With your meter set to ac volts, at the terminal block, check from white (N) to red (L2), you should read 120 volts, from white to black (L1), 120 volts, from red to black, 240 volts. A thermostat or fuse can be checked for continuity. A thermistor, motor, anything that is not s simple switch is checked for Resistance, Ohms. Let me know what you find and get back to me. We will advance further into the problem.

[nsilvestristd]

When I test the terminal block I get these readings.

Black and Red = 240v

White and Black = 240v

Red and White = 15v

I also tested the ground just out of curiosity and I’m getting 240v from black or red to the grounded chasis.

After seeing this I just looked at how that outlet is run and its only run for 240v on a double pole with 10/2 so technically the circuit is using the nuetral as a conducter vs having the red as a second conducter. Could this be the issue? This is a new property that I have slowly been updating the electrical but this outlet seemed to working fine with our electric oven so I haven’t even checked or troubleshoot this because I thought it was all set.

[DavidP_APP_Team]

White and black should not have 240 volts, this is why your dryer is acting this way. Something is not wired right in the electrical box.

[nsilvestristd]

Ok sounds good. I’m getting some 10/3 and will be updating the circuit.

I should be getting 120v on both black and white and red and white readings correct? And 240v on the black and red reading?

Thanks for your help.

[nsilvestristd]

Just wanted to give an update.

I changed the wiring of the circuit from 8/2 to 8/3 and everything seems to working fine now. LED lights are on, motor is spinning the drum. It is a little squeeky at the moment but I know to fix that. I am testing to see if it heats but otherwise things are looking good.

Thanks again for all your help!