About a month ago the drain solenoid overheated and melted, leaving melted plastic on the plunger and jammed the plunger in the out position. (Drain valve closed)
I replaced the solenoid kit from AppliancePartsPros.com. Last night I started to smell the same burning smell and took off the kick panel, and sure enough the same problem. The machine probably only had about 7 washes since the solenoid was replaced.
There are only two sets of wires going to the solenoid, a white/red, that is shared with other components, and a grey wire that goes to the timer. My theory is that the timer is keeping the solenoid energized, thereby making the solenoid overheat and melt causing the failure.
Has anybody run into this problem, and if so, what was the cure?
I’m not going to throw parts at it in hopes of fixing the problem. If I don’t find a definitive cure, I’m just going to buy a better washer.
valky
The problem with your dishwasher is a bad timer. It got stuck at the drain point when the drain solenoid was energized which caused the coils to overheat and melt. This is a pretty common problem for this model of the GE dishwasher.
To fix it now you have to replace the timer and the drain solenoid. It is going to cost you over $150.00 and I do not thing this dishwasher is worth it.
If you decide to buy a new one I would recommend Kitchen Aid as a best brand on my opinion.
Gene.
I replaced the solenoid about 6 months ago and it melted again also.
AppliancePartsPros replaced it free and I got it fedex in about 3 days.
I was wondering why it failed so quickly again though. Thanks to Gene for clearing up the reason it failed.
I lubricated the timer gears and maybe it will last until I replace the entire unit. $118 for the timer is just to much money to put into a $200 machine.:mad:
I am a new member, and I am having the same problem, I want to replace the solenoid and the timer but the plunger has the plastic melted on it and I am not able to remove the bracket / solenoid assembly.
Glad I saw this 14 year old post. Unfortunately wish I saw it before I spent $30 on a new solenoid replacement kit. Looks like GE still has not corrected the issue. This is EXACTLY what is happening to my unit. Replaced the solenoid by myself and thought I was a genius. But, guess it’s time to get a new dishwasher (only 3 years old).
This happened to me and replaced both the solenoid and timer but now the dishwasher doesn’t run the full cycle and the dishes aren’t clean. It’s definitely different from before the fix,but it’s not working as before. Is there something else that is bad that caused the timer to not work properly or go bad in the first place?
I have a GE JUNK too. I have replaced the dump solenoid and the timer $ times in 18 months and it just did it again. This is how they make their money. They are the Cabal, Just like the rest of the Reptilians that is ruling our world. TheGreatAwakening.org to find out more about the fall of the Cabal.
May 14, 2023 I have the same problem, replaced the drain solenoid and it burned up. I always thought this was caused by the timer, so I have one ordered and an another solenoid. My dishwasher is a GE, and going on 9 years old. I thought about replacing the dishwasher with a new one, but at about $600 plus I thought I would try repairing the old one. So far I have about $150 in parts.
]ust Letting people know, DO NOT BUY G.E. It IS PURE JUNK. G.E. Is Part OF THE CABAL (DEEP STATE) they delibritly make products to fail to keep you broke. I was a SUCKER TOO!!! I have a G.E. Dishwasher and have had it 2 years and have replaced the drain solinoid and timer 5 times in the 2 years.
I’m not so sure it’s the timer’s fault. I got a work order in for a dishwasher that won’t drain.
Funny thing is when I got it, it wouldn’t fill or drain. The water inlet valve was stick closed, and the drain solenoid was melted closed.
I installed brand new parts. The water goes in and goes out half as fast.
Confused, I check the solenoid. It was binding about 2/3rds the way in. I tried WD40 and it improved the movement, but did nothing for the binding.
Perplexed, I inspect my brand new part from GE and I notice that the actuator (the metal part of the solenoid) is milled to for the home perfectly.
This is not good, because the hole is a plastic columns and the metal bottom is air tight. Thus condition causes a vacuum resistance when the spring tries to pull the actuator back out of the coil. Think when a full trash bag is difficult to remove from a trash can.
So, I took a file and filed down the bottom half of the actuator so air can get pass.
That solved the binding issue
After making the modification, I now wonder if I could have taken my Dremel and just made a single shallow notch from the bottom to the top of the actuator and achieved the same result.
