Do I need a new control board

General
1

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Brand:Kitchenaid
Model Number:KDTM354DSS4
Main Symptom:Machine shouts off after about 5 mins
What happens & when:% min into cycle

Error Code (if any): 5 1
Parts or tests already tried:replaced door latch
Photos / video link:

2

Hi, the 5-1 error code is a door switch/door stuck open fault. This can happen if the door wasn’t fully latched within 4 seconds after pressing Start/Resume, or if there’s an issue with the latch, strike plate, door switch, or wiring.

First, make sure the door is closing firmly and nothing from the racks is interfering with it. Check that the door seal is seated correctly and inspect the strike plate and latch for damage or loose/broken plastic pieces. You can also slightly bend the strike plate downward if needed to help the latch engage properly.

If everything looks good mechanically, unplug the dishwasher and check the door switch and wiring connections. With the door latched closed, the switch should have very low resistance. If you have high resistance, check for loose connections or a failing door switch/latch assembly.

If all of that checks out, the next step is a live-voltage test. With the door open, you should have approximately 13 VDC across control connector P9-5 and P9-6. Use caution with this test since the dishwasher will be powered. If there is no voltage there, disconnect power and replace the control board. For the door switch resistance test, I’d clarify it like this:

  1. Unplug the dishwasher or disconnect power.
  2. Disconnect the door switch wires/connector so you’re testing the switch itself and not reading through the control circuit.
  3. Set your multimeter to resistance (Ω) or continuity mode.
  4. Place one meter lead on each door switch contact.
  5. Door open/unlatched: The switch should read OL/infinite resistance, meaning the circuit is open.
  6. Door fully closed/latched: The switch should read very close to 0Ω (typically only a few ohms at most), meaning the contacts have closed.
  7. Slowly operate the latch several times while watching the meter. The reading should change cleanly from OL to near 0Ω every time.

If the switch still reads OL or unusually high resistance when fully latched, first make sure the latch is actually pushing the switch far enough. If it is, the door switch/latch assembly is faulty and should be replaced.

Also wiggle the wiring and connectors during the test. If the resistance jumps around, you may have a loose connection, damaged wire, or poor terminal contact rather than a bad switch.

3

Everything seems to be operating properly regarding the actual latch, which I expected as I have already replaced (apparently unnecessarily, but I knew that might be possible.

So I moved on to the "measure 13 VDC across control connector P9-5 and P9-613 VDC across control connector P9-5 and P9-6" I did get approx a 13 VDC reading, if I am reading it correctly (but I did watch aa video on the exact multimeter I purchased, so I think I am right.)

I did the test with the power on, door open and closed, With the door open and the door closed, I got the same exact reading from the meter. Does this indicate that the control board is faulty?

4

I know we are back from a holiday weekend. Just making sure you saw my response. My wife is getting antsy regarding the repair

5

Hi, since you’ve already replaced the door latch and the control board is reading correctly, the next step is to check the wiring between the latch and the control board.

First, turn off power to the dishwasher at the breaker or unplug the unit. Verify the dishwasher has no power before touching or disconnecting any wiring.

Remove the outer door panel and locate the wires coming from the door latch. Follow that wire harness down the inside of the door toward the bottom hinge and then toward the control board.

Pay especially close attention to the area around the bottom hinge. This section of the harness flexes every time the door opens and closes. Carefully pull back the protective wrap and inspect each wire for breaks, cuts, pinched areas, burn marks, or damaged insulation.

To continuity-test the wiring:

  1. Keep the dishwasher completely disconnected from power.
  2. Disconnect the latch harness from the latch and disconnect the corresponding connector at the control board. You don’t want to perform a continuity test on an energized circuit.
  3. Set your multimeter to continuity mode. If your meter doesn’t have a continuity setting, use the lowest resistance (Ω) setting.
  4. Touch the meter probes together first. The meter should beep or show very close to 0 Ω. This confirms the meter and leads are working correctly.
  5. Identify the same wire at both ends of the harness. Place one meter probe on the terminal at the latch end and the other probe on the matching terminal at the control-board end.
  6. A good wire should show continuity—typically a beep and resistance close to 0 Ω. An OL/open reading or no beep indicates that the wire has a break somewhere between those two points.
  7. Repeat this test for each wire in the latch circuit.
  8. While keeping the probes connected, gently move and flex the harness around the bottom hinge. If continuity comes and goes while moving the harness, you likely have an internal wire break that may not be visible from the outside.
  9. If you locate a broken wire, repair it with a secure, properly insulated splice. Make sure the repaired section and harness are routed so they won’t be stretched or pinched when the door opens and closes.
  10. After repairing the wiring, reconnect all connectors, reinstall the door panel, restore power, and test the dishwasher.

If every wire has good continuity from the latch to the control board, the next step would be checking the connectors and terminals for loose, corroded, pushed-back, or damaged pins before moving on to another component

6

I have run the tests. lines to latch all have continuity. there is no loose connection and no corrosion

7

Thank you for your help. You may not believe it, but I think I fixed it. A screw to secure the dishwasher to the cabinet on the side came loose. This caused the dishwasher to slip off the plastic shim underneath. Do the door was not securing properly because it was somewhat off level. I feel foolish, but I am glad I did not buy the control board. As always, Appliance Parts pros were very helpful with my dilemma. If I had not gone through all the tests and not been able to see that nothing seemed wrong mechanically and electronically, I might not have looked for something else that was causing the problem.

1 Like
8

Hahaha, that’s awesome! Glad we could help you out!