My GE dishwasher runs all cycles and can hear pump working and spraying.
There is no air gap, plumbed directly into sink drain.
Will drain partially, and I have disconnected drain hose and put in bucket on floor and see no blockage.
I have opened inside drain and checked screens, not blocked.
Is there a timer setting or sensor that could be bad?
What else can I try?
Hi Steve,
You have to check:
The piston and nut (#564 on the break down diagram). Unscrew it and check the cone.
Remove the dishwasher. Remove the body valve (#560 on the break down diagram) and check the flapper inside.
Here are the break down diagrams for the GE dishwasher Model GSD4030Z07WW, similar to yours.
Gene.
Follow GENE’s #1 answer, They DO fail often, very easy to check!!!
Thank you, I will check that tonight.
Strve’s problem is identical to mine. Does the dishwasher really have to be removed to change the piston and nut part?
NO!!! just remove the lower rack, remove the REAR cover inside the unit, and unscrew the piston and nut. (1 part) you will see a tan or white silocone plunger on a spring loaded shaft, when you push on the spring loaded shaft, the plunger should close the hole at the top of the nut!!! Most that I have seen with a few years on them have the silocone worn away, if yours dosent COMPLETELY cover the hole, You have found your trouble!!!
Thanks Dags1998, I should have pulled that cover too. I just didn’t think that valve was that far back.
Hugh
I have the same problem as others in the Group and I can’t find a break down diagram (Google failed me) for the machine nor can I find the piston. Each cycle leaves about 3 gallons of yucky water in the machine.
My problem is very similar to Steve Chesnut’s. I have removed everything that I could find inside the unit (one exception) and I haven’t found the piston and nut that Drags1998 described.
Okay, the exception – there is a plastic screen at the rear of the unit that goes all the way across the machine. It is held by two screws in the corners (no problem) and two in the center (forward edge of the screen). The two in the center also hold down a bracket for the rear of the heating element; they require a 1/4" open-end wrench to remove, which I don’t have. I pried up the rear of the screen, (badly cutting up several fingers) and can’t feel any parts under it. Is the piston under that screen somewhere? If so, I’ll buy a wrench!
Any help would be much appreciated. My wife is demanding a NEW MACHINE unless I can fix this one ASAP as we’ve been washing dishes by hand for a month!
Not all GE dishwashers have the part #564 in them. I do believe that if you have the screen in the rear of the unit, There IS a #564 in there. Go buy a 1/4" NUT DRIVER(SEARS) and take the screen off, The part that you need is under that screen!!!
I changed the piston and nut #564, which was bad, but it still won’t drain completely. I guess the next step is to pull the unit from the counter to get to the valve, #560?
Would you expect that the electrical and drain will have to be disconnected to get the unit out far enough to get to the valve:mad:?
Drags,
I found the piston and nut and I found the breakdown diagram that Gene posted that went to here:
Model GSD4030Z07WW
Another link that may be useful is:
http://www.************.com/0088_9_1.asp#Level1_4
Gene’s post contained two links that went to the diagram. My browser did not display the links well and I didn’t notice them at first.
About the center screws which also hold down the element – the idiot enjineers who designed the washer ran the heating element directly over the two 3/4"screws making it impossible to use a socket. A 1/2"screw would have done but they had to make removal more difficult with 3/4 hardware.
I removed the nut and #564 pump and found some crud on the pump shaft. The plunger and seat are okay. I put it all back together again and will give it a “smoke test” tomorrow. The #543 filter frame (I believe that’s the long plastic “filter” at the rear-most part of the tub), has a fine mesh at the front but large openings at the top that allow all kinds of crud to enter the compartment and settle into the pump area; another fine GE design!
If my machine still doesn’t drain, I guess I’ll follow Hugh J and pull the # 560 valve.
Hugh – on my machine, yes, I had to drain all water, unplug the electrical and remove and drain the drain line; I still had a mess on the floor. To get to the bottom of the unit, I flipped it over on it’s back. Mind the insulation pads on the sides when you pull the unit out. They tend to catch and tear on various items that stick out into the opening. The most difficult problem I had in removal was prying loose the two #888 clips at the front-top of the unit after removing the screws that go into the under side of the counter top. 'Course you have to loosen up the two # 70 leveling screws before removing the unit. Then it just tips out from the bottom.
Good luck!
Kenn
That all depends on your installer, try to pull it, if your lucky you’ll be able to reach the valve,
Well, my machine still doesn’t drain and I now have a door seal that leaks. Off to buy some parts – door seals and a # 560 valve; cheers.
kenn
NO!!! just remove the lower rack, remove the REAR cover inside the unit, and unscrew the piston and nut. (1 part) you will see a tan or white silocone plunger on a spring loaded shaft, when you push on the spring loaded shaft, the plunger should close the hole at the top of the nut!!! Most that I have seen with a few years on them have the silocone worn away, if yours dosent COMPLETELY cover the hole, You have found your trouble!!!;)[/quote]
Anyone checking that plunger – pay special attention to the “top” of the plunger! As Drags1998 wrote, “the plunger should close the hole at the top of the nut.” My plunger looked entirely intact, the first time I took it out.
Weeks later, I went back and had another look and re-read Drag’s post. My plunger does not close the hole in the nut. The silicone wore away in such a way that it left a perfect saucer-shaped part that was too small to close the hole and, therefore, must be replaced!
Many thanks, Drags.
Off to order more parts.
Kenn
Thanks guys. I got the parts that I needed (door seals for the leaks – called “baffles”) and the infamous piston and nut assembly (Part Details - GE Piston & nut, part number: WD24X10018).
Installed the parts, turned on the machine – and it WORKS! No leaks and the machine drains normally.
I also bought some Dishrack repair touch up paint (WPL 676455 [Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Dishrack repair touch up paint, grey, part number: 676455] ) to patch the racks. A set of new racks is some $150 and I thought I would give some Dremel grinding/sanding, and tough up paint a try and maybe buy another couple of years before I have to replace the racks due to rusting.
Regds, KB
Hey guys,
I have the same problem but have checked all of the above! Mine is a GE model # GSD5500G00BB. I pulled the 2 small wires off of the drain solenoid and connected an extension cord with spade connectors attached to the end directly to the drain solenoid. I can plug the cord in and it drains real nice! After it drains, I put the 2 wires back on, run the dishwasher and it still leaves it full of water. So I bought the control panel # 905 thinking it just wasn’t “telling” the drain solenoid to work. That didn’t work, so I bought the sequencing switch #904. That didn’t work either. Do I have a wiring problem between the control panel/sequencing switch and drain solenoid or what? Anybody seen this before? Thanks guys!
Stevie b
Hi Steve,
I would definitely remove the inner door panel and check the wires.
Gene.
Thanks Gene, I did that twice, once when I replaced the controller and then again when I replaced the sequence switch. I didn’t really take a close look at the wiring so I guess I’ll have to do it again and look real close. Any idea where I can get a schematic? I’d sure like to see what’s between that controller, sequence switch and drain solenoid. Thanks again, I’ll let you guys all know what I come up with.
Steve
Could not find a wiring diagram for this unit.
Does the drain solenoid pull down then release.
Usually the power to pull the solenoid down is only around 10 to 20 seconds, then the water pressure holds the flapper valve closed.
If the solenoid is powered for the entire drain cycle it will overheat and eventually fail.
Cannot say for sure if this applies to this model but it does to other models of the same basic design.
Tape or clip your meter leads to the solenoid wires to see if you are getting this pulse. If yes, you have a mechanical problem.
If no check each wire from the solenoid back to the controller. remove the wire from the solenoid when doing this just to be sure you are not measuring and alternate/parallel circuit path.
Actually I probably mispoke, calling this a solenoid. It’s actually a small drain motor with a little plastic impeller. It pumps the water out when it receives 120V to it. I can hook 120V to it direct and it works just fine. That’s why I guessed and replaced the controller. Then when that didn’t work, I guessed again and replaced the sequence switch. Both times wrong!