dishwasher stops in middle of cycle… any idea’s thank you in advance!
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Replacement parts for GE HDA1200G00WW | AppliancePartsPros.com
If it always stops at the same point in the cycle odds are high that it is the timer. Would also check to be sure that some thing has not come loose and is jamming the timer cam.
If it is random could be that the door/latch switch needs replacing or adjusting.
Might also be a bad connection in the wiring hook up.
[quote=denman;141727]Here are your parts
Replacement parts for GE HDA1200G00WW | AppliancePartsPros.com
If it always stops at the same point in the cycle odds are high that it is the timer. Would also check to be sure that some thing has not come loose and is jamming the timer cam.
If it is random could be that the door/latch switch needs replacing or adjusting.
Might also be a bad connection in the wiring hook up.[/quote]
Thanks for the reply denman i dont think my problem is the timer got it today same deal my wiring looks ok so i guess that leaves the door latch switch in question… should i go with that? dishwasher still stopping in middle of cycle…
I would check that the door latch is pushing the switch actuator down properly.
Am not sure if there is any adjustment on the switch but try to move it up a little so it activates earlier.
The switch is $60.00 approx. and the timer is $80.00 approx. so if you have to replace both you will be at $148.00. Depending on the condition of the unit this is getting close to where it makes more sense to replace the unit.
Also you have no guarantee that either one is at fault.
When it stops if you can just open the door and close it and it starts up and runs right away I would go with the switch.
[quote=denman;142977]I would check that the door latch is pushing the switch actuator down properly.
Am not sure if there is any adjustment on the switch but try to move it up a little so it activates earlier.
The switch is $60.00 approx. and the timer is $80.00 approx. so if you have to replace both you will be at $148.00. Depending on the condition of the unit this is getting close to where it makes more sense to replace the unit.
Also you have no guarantee that either one is at fault.
When it stops if you can just open the door and close it and it starts up and runs right away I would go with the switch.[/quote]
OK denman the dishwasher switch actuator is ok now i have to buttons also the Black actuators 2 of them 1 on top & below it also i noticed that there is a brass looking metal piece thingy over top of it that was only contacting 1 of those buttons i slide it up a notch now dishwasher runs thru whole cycle & finishes but my water is still on bottom of washer it sounded like it drained but didnt im bailing out water now so any other ideas that might help me ? thanks in advance! “Krazed123”
[COLOR=Blue]uns thru whole cycle & finishes but my water is still on bottom of washer it sounded like it drained but didnt im bailing out water now so any other ideas that might help me ?[/COLOR]
Don’t bother bailing it.
If you have bailed is run a cycle and wash the wash/drain solenoid
Put the timer to mid point in a wash cycle.
Push the solenoid arm down, left hand side of the pump assembly.
Latch the door so the cycle starts and see it it drains.
Once the motor starts you should be able to release the solenoid arm.
Once the unit gurgles it means it is empty and the solenoid arm should return to the home position.
If all the above runs OK but it does not drain then you may havev a clog somewhere.
This is how this works.
For a drain cycle the timer applies power to the drain solenoid for about 5 seconds. The solenoids will overheat and melt their plastic if power is applied for the entire drain cycle.
The solenoids plunger pulls down, this move a flapper valve in the pump assembly. Now the water is directed out the drain instead of up through the wash arms.
The water pressure keeps this valve closed till the water is drained out and then the plunger returns to the wash position.
One thing to note the unit never drains 100% of the water as the pump seals will burn up if the sump is dry, usually 1/4 inch or so of water is left in the bottom of the tub.
[quote=denman;143502][COLOR=blue]uns thru whole cycle & finishes but my water is still on bottom of washer it sounded like it drained but didnt im bailing out water now so any other ideas that might help me ?[/COLOR]
Don’t bother bailing it.
If you have bailed is run a cycle and wash the wash/drain solenoid
Put the timer to mid point in a wash cycle.
Push the solenoid arm down, left hand side of the pump assembly.
Latch the door so the cycle starts and see it it drains.
Once the motor starts you should be able to release the solenoid arm.
Once the unit gurgles it means it is empty and the solenoid arm should return to the home position.
If all the above runs OK but it does not drain then you may havev a clog somewhere.
This is how this works.
For a drain cycle the timer applies power to the drain solenoid for about 5 seconds. The solenoids will overheat and melt their plastic if power is applied for the entire drain cycle.
The solenoids plunger pulls down, this move a flapper valve in the pump assembly. Now the water is directed out the drain instead of up through the wash arms.
The water pressure keeps this valve closed till the water is drained out and then the plunger returns to the wash position.
One thing to note the unit never drains 100% of the water as the pump seals will burn up if the sump is dry, usually 1/4 inch or so of water is left in the bottom of the tub.[/quote]
Hi denman i ran the cycle again in the mid of the wash still dont hear no gargle not draining still has like a huge puddle of water in the tub & also leakig out 1 corner as the washer is working…
Did you try holding down the wash/drai solenoid plunger?
i dont know where to find it … you have any pics?
Hi denman no luck wont drain leaking out on the floor it wont drain now!
Take a look at the parts breakdown in my earlier psot.
Wash/drain solenoid is Item 497 in Section 3
You will have to find out where it is leaking
A flashlight and small mirror can be a big help here.
You may have a plug and the pressure has blown a fitting or hose.
A common spot for a plug is where the drain hose connects to the house plumbing.
[quote=denman;143618]Take a look at the parts breakdown in my earlier psot.
Wash/drain solenoid is Item 497 in Section 3
You will have to find out where it is leaking
A flashlight and small mirror can be a big help here.
You may have a plug and the pressure has blown a fitting or hose.
A common spot for a plug is where the drain hose connects to the house plumbing.[/quote]
Hi denman i did as u said i found the solenoid and pushed down on the white pully thingy while in wash mode some water did go away & i also dont hear it draining on its own thru whole cycle so i have to manually drain on my own im lost? dont hear any gargle thru cycle no pluged or clogged lines either…
You now have to find out why the solenoid is not working.
Remove the wires from it and check it with a meter for continuity.
If it is open (infinite ohms) it needs replacing.
If it has continuity, you have to set your meter on volts, run it through a cycle. If it does not get 120 volts when it should start draining your timer is probably bad.
Another possibility is the wire from the timer to the solenoid is broken.
[quote=denman;143900]You now have to find out why the solenoid is not working.
Remove the wires from it and check it with a meter for continuity.
If it is open (infinite ohms) it needs replacing.
If it has continuity, you have to set your meter on volts, run it through a cycle. If it does not get 120 volts when it should start draining your timer is probably bad.
Another possibility is the wire from the timer to the solenoid is broken.[/quote]
Ok Denman after checking the solenoid its dead i believe it smells like it fried? new solenoid?
the solenoid its definetly fried & yes its stuck open…
Yes you will need a new solenoid.
There is one other thing you should check.
Check that the timer only sends [power to the solenoid for 10 seconds or so when it is supposed to start draining.
One cause of the solenoids overheating is the timer contacts sticking closed, this puts power to it for too long and the solenoid overheats and eventually fails.
[quote=denman;143929]Yes you will need a new solenoid.
There is one other thing you should check.
Check that the timer only sends [power to the solenoid for 10 seconds or so when it is supposed to start draining.
One cause of the solenoids overheating is the timer contacts sticking closed, this puts power to it for too long and the solenoid overheats and eventually fails.[/quote]
Thanks again denman ill let you know how i made out when solenoid gets here should be tomorow! 