Dishwasher has no power. No lights, nothing

Dishwasher Repair
1

Brand:Amana
**Model Number:**ADB1200AWB
Main Symptom: No Power
What happens & when: Push start and nothing happens, no power light, nothing

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Replaced door switch, replaced power (black wire) terminal and confirmed inserted into main control board
Photos / video link:

2

Since you have absolutely no lights and no response at all, and you’ve already replaced the door switch and repaired the burned black power wire terminal, I’d stop looking at the latch circuit and start verifying power through the machine.

For the ADB1200AWB platform, a completely dead dishwasher is usually caused by one of these: power supply issue, open thermal fuse (if equipped), broken wiring, or failed control board.

Next checks I’d make:

1. Verify 120 VAC at the dishwasher junction box

Don’t assume because the house breaker is on.

Measure:

  • Black to White = ~120 VAC

  • Black to Ground = ~120 VAC

  • White to Ground = ~0 VAC

I’ve seen loose wirenuts and partially burned supply connections cause exactly this symptom.

2. Verify 120 VAC reaches the control board

Since the black wire terminal was damaged, check farther upstream.

With power on:

  • L1 (black feed) to Neutral at the board should read ~120 VAC.

If you don’t have 120 VAC at the board:

  • Broken wire in harness

  • Bad connection at junction box

  • Open neutral

3. Check for a burned neutral

A burned neutral is common after a hot terminal overheats.

You may have:

  • 120 VAC from black to ground

  • But little or no voltage from black to white

If so, trace the white wire path carefully.

4. Inspect the control board closely

Remove the board and look for:

  • Burned traces

  • Dark spots

  • Melted relay area

  • Damaged connector where the black wire plugs in

If the original black terminal overheated, the board itself may have been damaged.

5. Check the ribbon connector and console

If you have 120 VAC at the board but no LEDs whatsoever:

  • Control board not generating low voltage

  • Failed control board

  • Less commonly, failed console/keypad

On this model, a completely dark console with verified incoming 120 VAC often points toward the main control.

A couple questions:

  1. Was the black wire terminal burned at the board connector, or at the house wiring junction box?

  2. Do you have a multimeter?

  3. Can you measure 120 VAC directly at the control board input?

That voltage reading will narrow this down very quickly.