Dekeole, if you have a multimeter available, the wire connection of the ice maker harness would need to be accessed. From there, tape the freezer door switch shut, set the meter to Volts AC. With one meter probe placed in with the black wire with white stripe going to the icemaker harness connection, and the other going to the white wire, tape the emitter flapper down so that the optics have clear line of sight between the emitter and receiver. Does the multimeter measure 120 Volts AC?
On your KitchenAid KSSC48QTS02, the ice maker uses an infrared emitter and receiver (optics) system instead of a mechanical shutoff arm. If the optics fail, the ice maker will not cycle.
Quick Optics Test
Make sure the ice maker switch is ON.
Open the freezer door.
Look at the red status LED on the receiver board (right side of the freezer).
Expected result:
Blink-blink, pause, blink-blink, pause = Normal with the emitter flap open (beam blocked).
Now press and hold the flapper door on the left-side emitter so the infrared beam reaches the receiver.
Expected result:
Solid red LED = Emitter and receiver are working correctly.
Still blinking twice, pause = The optics are not seeing the beam. The emitter/receiver boards are likely defective or misaligned.
If There Is No LED
If you don’t see any LED:
Press and hold the freezer door switch.
Watch the LED again.
Flashes once per second = The ice maker is in a harvest cycle. Wait about 5 minutes and repeat the test.
Still no LED = The optics boards are likely faulty.
If the Optics Pass
If the LED changes from blink-blink to solid when you hold the emitter flap closed, the optics are good. The next things to check are:
Ice maker module
Water inlet valve
Frozen fill tube
120 VAC supply to the ice maker during harvest
Can you tell me exactly what the LED is doing now?