I have a Kenmore Refridgerator Model 74264400 - bought in 5/2004. Within a year we had problems with it and it seems to be doing the same thing.
The defrost seems to run too long - doesn’t know when to shut off.
The ice will be frozen and the freezer seems fine - lots of cold smoke when you open the door, then a couple days later, everything seems to be defrosting, then a couple days later, it is fine again.
I’m wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the part they replaced before.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]I’m wondering if I should just go ahead and replace the part they replaced before.[/COLOR]
What part was that?
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]The defrost seems to run too long - doesn’t know when to shut off.[/COLOR]
Could you explain this better.
How long is too long?
Have you opened the freezer during a defrost cycle to check the temperature?
Also you are missing the first 3 digits (I think) in your model number so I cannot find any info on this unit.
Model # 106.74264400 is the full model #.
On 6/28/2005 - Part replaced - SUB CNTRL-EL (46 106 2303826 1) - The component failure listed on the repair ticket was defrost coils - ordered defrost control.
On 7/18/2006 - Part replaced - SUB MOTOR-EV (46 106 2214986 1) - The component failure listed on the repair ticket was evaporator motor.
The reason I say that the defrost seems to be running too long is the ice and frozen food are melting. It is my understanding that the automatic defrost is there to prevent ICE build-up in the freezer like the older models use to do where I would have to occasionally shut-off the refridgerator/freezer and clean-out the ice build-up.
However, the defrost shouldn’t run so long as to cause the ice and frozen food to melt. Seems to keep the ice and food frozen for 3-4 days, then we start noticing the ice melting and frozen food thawing. The frozen biscuits will completely melt and then refreeze into one big biscuit. The ice cream on the top shelf leaks to the bottom shelf. We’ll take out the food and move it to the refridgerator freezer in the garage (20yr old unit - never had issues with it). Then, we notice the freezer is working again after a day or so, so we move everything back.
When the refridgerator is completely silent, the freezer termp is above freezing. We’re assuming that when the refridgerator is silent that it is in defrost mode.
The refridgerator makes a grinding noise that we think is the fan hitting the ice build-up behind the freezer. We’ve actually turned off the refridgerator to allow the ice to melt.
…Dean
The 106 tells us that Whirlpool made this unit.
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 10674264400 | AppliancePartsPros.com
See the attachment for the tech sheet.
OK looks like they have replaced the adaptive defrost board and the evaporator (freezer) fan.
Your porblem could be the defrost system and perhaps the temperature thermostat.
To check the thermostat the next time it happens turn the main thermostat slightly left/right, do not turn it to off. If the unit fires up then the thermostat is probably sticking open.
For the defrost check, please see below.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]It is my understanding that the automatic defrost is there to prevent ICE build-up in the freezer[/COLOR]
Strictly speaking defrost does not remove the ice in the freezer, it removes the ice/frost build up from the evaporator coils in the freezer.
They way it works is that the adaptive defrost monitors the fridge usage and then determines how often the unit should defrost. It then starts then defrost in this case it looks like it is 18 minutes for this unit. This is a fixed time. There is a defrost thermostat clipped onto the evaporator coils, this thermostat opens just above freezing. So if all the ice/frost has melted off the coils before the 18 minutes is up it shuts off power to the defrost heater.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]When the refridgerator is completely silent, the freezer termp is above freezing. We’re assuming that when the refridgerator is silent that it is in defrost mode.[/COLOR]
Yes when the fans and compressor is off the unit is usually in a defrost mode.
Though some units do shut off the fans when the thermostat is open turning the compressor off.
When it is running correctly turn the main temperature thermostat down to see if the compressor and the fans all shut off.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]
The refridgerator makes a grinding noise that we think is the fan hitting the ice build-up behind the freezer. We’ve actually turned off the refridgerator to allow the ice to melt.[/COLOR]
This does sound like a defrost problem.
It sounds like the defrost may be intermittent, usually a defrost problem will not clear itself and you have to do a manual defrost to get the unit working again.
Try to force a defrost (see the tech sheet)
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet till the fans and compressor turn off.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the adaptive defrost board needs replacing, re: it is never getting into a defrost cycle.
I would also check the defrost thermostat for bulging as it is often the cause of intermittent defrost.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
74264400.pdf (505.5 KB)