I have a DCS SC305 range with a 5 burner cook top.
The oven portion is not lighting. I’ll get a slight amount of warm heat from time to time, but most often not. On the convection setting, the fan is running and the lights on the front of the display are working fine. I gather the igniter is burnt out. The oven is approx 8 years old.
Also, on the cook top, the ignitors sometimes will click and light, but other times not and I have to manually light them.
The range is operated off of propane.
Need to get the range working for Thanksgiving and willing to do the work myself.
Also, a reference to reasonable parts would be helpful. It appears that parts for this over are pretty expensive.
Craig
Appliance Ninja…
I want to be sure this part is for the DCS (Fisher & Paskayl) brand ovens? Just to double check.
Thanks for your input.
Craig
That igniter is not an OEM igniter, but a generic one that will fit many different models and brands. It is a low cost alternative to OEM but of the same quality and likely from the same manufacturer with different labeling.
Also, I was going through some other forums and someone else had the same issue. It was recommended that they check the Limit Fuse which is apparently behind the door lock and to see if it was tripped. The other possible cause was the thermostat?
If the limit was tripped, the igniter would not energize at all. You stated that the oven will produce a slight amount of heat (likely from the igniter) so that would mean power is getting to it. Do you have a meter to test voltage at the igniter leads? Can you see it glow red, even though the oven does not light?
Now it doesn’t produce any heat. I pulled the cover off to look at the limit fuse. It appears to be a small black colored part with a square red button in the middle. It appears to be up, but not sure if it typically protrudes? I will shut the power and see, but just trying to press it as is, it’s hard to push. Also, should I reset the breaker?
If that limit was open, that red button would have pushed easily and produced a slight click when it reset. I suspect the oven igniter is faulty. You can confirm that by measuring the voltage at the two wires leading to the igniter. If you read 120 VAC and the igniter is not glowing, it is faulty.
I’ll do a test… I gather I have to pull off the plate at the inside of the over to access the igniter?
Thanks for your help. Is there a way to test the igniter itself?
Yes, you can measure continuity through it. However, it may test good that way but not draw enough current through the valve to open it, so it is more accurate to measure the voltage and current draw. If it is getting voltage to it, even if it glows, it is likely bad.
I pulled out the ignitor this morning. Comparing it to the picture in the one you sent me, all looks very identical except that the part of it that appears vented with the slots is a bit wider on the one I pulled out. Matter or not?
I found what looks closer to the one I have on Amazon. However, the tab with the two holes on the one I have is at the bottom based on the way it’s facing vs. the one in the picture.
http://www.amazon.com/Kenmore-Range-Ignitor-Igniter-5303935067/dp/B00DNGRAC4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1384444776&sr=8-3&keywords=5303935067
That will not matter but you can use the old one by slightly bending it to remove it from the ceramic part. If you do that, be very careful not to touch or break the ceramic part, they are a bit fragile.
That is the same one I linked you to, but if you order through Amazon, you will not likely have the same warranty as if you ordered through APP. Also, Amazon offers no tech support… 
I see some that range from $25 to $70… but they all appear to be the same or fairly identical.
Got the replacement ignitor. The ceramic portion was a bit longer but fit and is now running! Thanks for your input.
My next appliance issue… a Bosch Dishwasher. Something you can maybe help with as well?
It’s s BOSCH Model: SXH46A05UC / 46
I was pulling the dishwasher out to clean in the back and underneath and to eventually connect a pronged plug to the hard wire because at the wall, its just two wires out of the electrical box which I do not like. Anyway, somewhere during the move of the stove, there was a short that seemed to have zapped the unit. I saw a spark on the underside where the wires come in.
It powers up, but often you’ll hear it draining, gurgling continuously without stopping. Also, when you select a particular “cycle” it doesn’t really do what it’s supposed to or will partially run and somewhat clean. But it’s not really doing what it should. I suspect the control board that controls the washer got partially fried.
Suggestions?
No problem. Thanks again. Will let you know how I make out with the Dishwasher!