side by side refrigerater, and freezing in the refrigerater, top shelf.
I ordered a new control box kit #5304482075 and installed it but now the damper door continuously opens and closes. Could the box kit I ordered be defective? I had diffficulty installing because I could not get the right or filter side to come down from the top of the refrigerater. I took the screw in the back loose and, I was wondering what do I do to get it to come down, to make it easier to install the new control should I have this situation in the future.
side by side refrigerater, and freezing in the refrigerater, top shelf.
I ordered a new control box kit #5304482075 and installed it but now the damper door continuously opens and closes. Could the box kit I ordered be defective? I had diffficulty installing because I could not get the right or filter side to come down from the top of the refrigerater. I took the screw in the back loose and, I was wondering what do I do to get it to come down, to make it easier to install the new control should I have this situation in the future.[/quote]
Robert,
We wouldnât expect you to have an issue with the new part. You may want to re check the work you did. Hereâs some help.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][LEFT]To remove the [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Italic][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial,Italic][SIZE=2]Control Housing Assembly[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2], remove the
three screws across the front control box and the two[/LEFT]
screws located in the rear control box.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][LEFT]The 2 housings will separate at the left back of the front
housing by sliding the rear housing to the right until the[/LEFT]
buttons line up with the larger hole in the slots.
Hereâs how this damper operates :
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][LEFT]When the food compartment control calls for cooling, the
contacts in the control will close sending a signal to the
ADC. The ADC then will start the damper motor running[/LEFT]
to open the damper.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][LEFT]As the damper motor opens the damper, the switches on
the damper will change from NO (normally open) to the
NC (normally closed) position one at a time to prevent the
stopping of the motor in a 1/2 open position, as a result
of a power outage as the damper is opening or closing.
When both switches have reached the NC position, the[/LEFT]
damper will be all the way open and the motor will stop.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][LEFT]The damper will remain open and the fan motor will
continue to run as long as the food compartment control
calls for cooling. Once the food compartment control is
satisfied, the contacts in the cold control will open. This
will break the signal to the ADC and start the damper
motor running again, closing the damper and shutting off[/LEFT]
the freezer fan motor.
You will need to check and make sure everything is mounted and seated properly and there are nno loose connections.
side by side refrigerater, and freezing in the refrigerater, top shelf.
I ordered a new control box kit #5304482075 and installed it but now the damper door continuously opens and closes. Could the box kit I ordered be defective? I had diffficulty installing because I could not get the right or filter side to come down from the top of the refrigerater. I took the screw in the back loose and, I was wondering what do I do to get it to come down, to make it easier to install the new control should I have this situation in the future.[/quote]
I have the same problem with the damper door running continuously with the new control box kit #5304482075.
I donât see how improper installation could cause this since it is pre-wired. The old assembly I removed was also doing this until it broke the gears that opened and closed the damper. So either the control of the damper is coming from somewhere else, or the part is defective.
Does anybody know what the cause/solution is to this problem?
[quote=ranger3;591273]I have the same problem with the damper door running continuously with the new control box kit #5304482075.
I donât see how improper installation could cause this since it is pre-wired. The old assembly I removed was also doing this until it broke the gears that opened and closed the damper. So either the control of the damper is coming from somewhere else, or the part is defective.
Does anybody know what the cause/solution is to this problem?
Thanks in advance,
AllenâŚ[/quote]
Allen, hereâs a tech update from our files that should help explain the situation.
"If the kit is installed in older(2001) SxS refrigerator, and damper assembly is inoperative, or irratic,
You will need to move the damper motor switch harness(gray and gray/white wires) to the other switch(farthest away from the damper motor).
The remaining harness(blue and orange/white wires/two wire connector) will attach to the harness from the freezer compartment sensor, or tape off the connector and set aside in the control box assembly and not use the connector, if harness is not there.
In short, if your refrigerator does not have a freezer temperature sensor, you, you will need to move the damper motor harness to the opposite switch. It is very important to have a proper installation and seal to the new control box because, Your refrigerator temp. sensor is located in the control box. Improper air flow and temperatures in the box, due to a leak or air infiltration, can cause the damper to operate irratically.
Good Luck and Thanks,
PS. Apparently this additional information did not get posted to previous responses, in the Repair Forum, but now it will, Thanks
[quote=Joe / APP Team;591422]Allen, hereâs a tech update from our files that should help explain the situation.
"If the kit is installed in older(2001) SxS refrigerator, and damper assembly is inoperative, or irratic,
You will need to move the damper motor switch harness(gray and gray/white wires) to the other switch(farthest away from the damper motor).
The remaining harness(blue and orange/white wires/two wire connector) will attach to the harness from the freezer compartment sensor, or tape off the connector and set aside in the control box assembly and not use the connector, if harness is not there.
[/quote]
Thank you for your response. Based on the information above, I was able to solve the damper door motor running constantly. I do have another issue, though.
First the solution. I have a 2003 Frigidaire. The damper control kit had the switch harness attached to the switch furthest from the motor. I moved it to the switch closest to the motor and now the damper door functions correctly. I havenât even scewed it back into the side of the refrig. and it is working as expected.
Now my current problem. Before I unscrewed the damper control kit, I noticed the refrig. wasnât very cold, even though I could hear it running. When I unscrewed the damper control kit, no air was coming from the freezer to the refrig. I know their should be because when I took the old one off a few days ago, their was. I let it run all night and when I woke up I checked it.
Both the freezer and refrig. were no longer cooling, even though the refrig. is runnning.
So now Iâm wondering if it froze up, or something else went bad.
[quote=ranger3;592809]Thank you for your response. Based on the information above, I was able to solve the damper door motor running constantly. I do have another issue, though.
First the solution. I have a 2003 Frigidaire. The damper control kit had the switch harness attached to the switch furthest from the motor. I moved it to the switch closest to the motor and now the damper door functions correctly. I havenât even scewed it back into the side of the refrig. and it is working as expected.
Now my current problem. Before I unscrewed the damper control kit, I noticed the refrig. wasnât very cold, even though I could hear it running. When I unscrewed the damper control kit, no air was coming from the freezer to the refrig. I know their should be because when I took the old one off a few days ago, their was. I let it run all night and when I woke up I checked it.
Both the freezer and refrig. were no longer cooling, even though the refrig. is runnning.
So now Iâm wondering if it froze up, or something else went bad.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
AllenâŚ[/quote]
Allen,
Remove a shelf in the freezer compartment, and check the back wall for a heavy build up of frost or ice on the wall. Thatâs a quick easy check for a defrost issue.
No frost or ice, suspect a faulty evaporator fan motor behind the freezer back wall.
Remove a shelf in the freezer compartment, and check the back wall for a heavy build up of frost or ice on the wall. Thatâs a quick easy check for a defrost issue.
No frost or ice, suspect a faulty evaporator fan motor behind the freezer back wall.
:)[/quote]
Thank you for your advice.
Hereâs the latest. I turned off the refrig. and left the doors open all day yesterday. I dried out anything inside that was still wet. I fired the refrig. back up and it is now cooling again. So I put it back together and it seems to working.
So I have 2 questions:
Does this mean I have a bad evaporator fan motor, or it just needed to be defrosted and it probably wonât happen again?
When I had the damper controll kit off, I noticed the damper door never fully opened when it was supposed to be open, and it never fully closed when it was supposed to be closed. Is this normal?
Thanks again for all your help. I hope this thread is helpful to others.
[quote=ranger3;594366]Thank you for your advice.
Hereâs the latest. I turned off the refrig. and left the doors open all day yesterday. I dried out anything inside that was still wet. I fired the refrig. back up and it is now cooling again. So I put it back together and it seems to working.
So I have 2 questions:
Does this mean I have a bad evaporator fan motor, or it just needed to be defrosted and it probably wonât happen again?
When I had the damper controll kit off, I noticed the damper door never fully opened when it was supposed to be open, and it never fully closed when it was supposed to be closed. Is this normal?
Thanks again for all your help. I hope this thread is helpful to others.
AllenâŚ[/quote]
Allen,
The easy stuff first, The damper assembly on your unit doesnât open or close completely. There has to be some air movement over to the fridge compartment at all times(except the 10 to 15 minute time span for the defrost heat cycle) to maintain the temperature. So, things are normal there.
The defrost vs. evaporator fan, a little different story.
Did you notice frost or ice on the back wall of the freezer compartment ?
If not, you can pretty much figure the fan is the issue. If it is, the fridge will stop cooling, soon. You need to allow a few days(5 to 7) to lapse before you do anything, You may have had a blockage on the evaporator coils, causing a loss of air flow, and youâre defrost procedure allowwed any excess ice to defrost and drain.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;594527]Allen,
The easy stuff first, The damper assembly on your unit doesnât open or close completely. There has to be some air movement over to the fridge compartment at all times(except the 10 to 15 minute time span for the defrost heat cycle) to maintain the temperature. So, things are normal there.
The defrost vs. evaporator fan, a little different story.
Did you notice frost or ice on the back wall of the freezer compartment ?
If not, you can pretty much figure the fan is the issue. If it is, the fridge will stop cooling, soon. You need to allow a few days(5 to 7) to lapse before you do anything, You may have had a blockage on the evaporator coils, causing a loss of air flow, and youâre defrost procedure allowwed any excess ice to defrost and drain.
Youâve asked some very pertinent questions, and they will come in handy for a lot of Repair Forum subscribers, in the future.
Thanks, :)[/quote]
Should cold air be blowing into the refrig. whenever the compressor is running?
I ask this, because now the refrig. is at 32 degrees and air is still blowing in because the compressor is running for the freezer. I know the damper door doesnât close all the way, but is their a fan thatâs running that shouldnât and itâs causing the refrig. to get to cold?
[quote=ranger3;595883]Should cold air be blowing into the refrig. whenever the compressor is running?
I ask this, because now the refrig. is at 32 degrees and air is still blowing in because the compressor is running for the freezer. I know the damper door doesnât close all the way, but is their a fan thatâs running that shouldnât and itâs causing the refrig. to get to cold?
AllenâŚ[/quote]
Allen,
I need the model number of your refrigerator, so I can research the diagram and air flow of your system.
In the mean time, check and make sure you didnât accidentally dislodge the refrigerator temp. control temperature bulb, in the control box. If itâs not in the air flow properly, it will not react properly and could cause colder temperatures.
I need the model number of your refrigerator, so I can research the diagram and air flow of your system.
In the mean time, check and make sure you didnât accidentally dislodge the refrigerator temp. control temperature bulb, in the control box. If itâs not in the air flow properly, it will not react properly and could cause colder temperatures.
:)[/quote]
I have a 2003 FRS26BH6CW0.
Even with the cold food thermostat set to 0, the cold air still flows in.
Even with the cold food thermostat set to 0, the cold air still flows in.
AllenâŚ[/quote]
Allen, Thanks for the model number, I have a better idea now.
First, the damper assembly doesnât close completely shut, there should be a 1/4 inch (or so) opening even in the closed position.
If the damper is closing but itâs still too cold in the fridge youâll need to check the freezer control temperature bulb for a proper installation,
This may be more helpful.[FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2]
[LEFT]"Freezer Compartment Control [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]The Freezer Control is mounted on the left, and it controls the cycling of the compressor and fan motors. The cap tube for the control runs along the right side of the rear housing and has a plastic sleeve installed on the last eight inches. [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/LEFT]
[FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2][LEFT]Fresh Food Compartment Control[/LEFT] [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][LEFT]The Fresh Food Compartment Control is located on the
right side on the front control section. The cap tube for
the control runs alongside the freezer cap tube back to
the damper control. Like the freezer control, the last 8
inches is covered with a plastic sleeve. The end of the
cap tube with the sleeve is snapped into a channel in
the air diffuser in front of the damper control. The Fresh Food Compartment Control will have an OFF position for the servicer to use in testing, but the [FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]word [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]â[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]OFF[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]â [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]will not show on the dial plate. To turn the control OFF, turn knob counterclockwise past WARM to the straight down position and you will feel the OFF[/LEFT]
position. [FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]When the control is off, the damper should close and the fan should shut off, if the compressor is not running."[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote=Joe / APP Team;596069]Allen, Thanks for the model number, I have a better idea now.
First, the damper assembly doesnât close completely shut, there should be a 1/4 inch (or so) opening even in the closed position.
If the damper is closing but itâs still too cold in the fridge youâll need to check the freezer control temperature bulb for a proper installation,
This may be more helpful.[FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2]
[LEFT]"Freezer Compartment Control [/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][LEFT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]The Freezer Control is mounted on the left, and it controls the cycling of the compressor and fan motors. The cap tube for the control runs along the right side of the rear housing and has a plastic sleeve installed on the last eight inches. [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/LEFT]
[FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica-Bold][SIZE=2][LEFT]Fresh Food Compartment Control[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][LEFT]The Fresh Food Compartment Control is located on the
right side on the front control section. The cap tube for
the control runs alongside the freezer cap tube back to
the damper control. Like the freezer control, the last 8
inches is covered with a plastic sleeve. The end of the
cap tube with the sleeve is snapped into a channel in
the air diffuser in front of the damper control. The Fresh Food Compartment Control will have an OFF position for the servicer to use in testing, but the [FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]word [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]â[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]OFF[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]â [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]will not show on the dial plate. To turn the control OFF, turn knob counterclockwise past WARM to the straight down position and you will feel the OFF[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/LEFT]
[FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]
position. [FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2][FONT=Helvetica][SIZE=2]When the control is off, the damper should close and the fan should shut off, if the compressor is not running."[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
I will have to check that. For the freezer control, should the cap tube with the last 8 inches covered with a sleeve run into the freezer compartment directly or should it be inserted into a tube that is going from the freezer into the refrig.?
When I removed it, it was in a tube that ran into the freezer and the black sleeve was on the part of the cap tube that was in the refrig.
[quote=ranger3;599585]I will have to check that. For the freezer control, should the cap tube with the last 8 inches covered with a sleeve run into the freezer compartment directly or should it be inserted into a tube that is going from the freezer into the refrig.?
When I removed it, it was in a tube that ran into the freezer and the black sleeve was on the part of the cap tube that was in the refrig.[/quote]
Ranger,
Youâre correct, The temperature bulb is iserted into the opening, going between the fridge and the freezer compartment, if itâs not the, compressor wonât cycle off, causing the fridge to run at very low temperatures in both compartments.
[quote=ranger3;608918]I think mine is running to cold because freezer cap tube is not on the last 8 inches. I will have to move it to the end and see if that does it.
Thank you for all your help so far. I couldnât have done this without it.
