Keypad not working…have used reset instructions with no success..how do I remove topcap bar for access to electronic keypad??
[QUOTE=evergreenc;2124]Keypad not working…have used reset instructions with no success..how do I remove topcap bar for access to electronic keypad??[/QUOTE]
We were using the vent, and it will not turn off, despite reset (hitting hi and low at the same time) and despite unplugging it. It ran all night@! Any ideas?
Raised vent not working either. But judging by the replys neither are the “pros”.
Ouch! Dgoode, post the vent model number and more info (does the vent do anything, etc.).
The vent will not do anything. It used to not go all the way up for fan operation so we messed with it enough to get it all the way up and left it there. Now no power to the buttons at all.
I checked the fuse on the circuit board and it is good, however the board has a dark spot right in the middle of it. I hope its something simple, that board is $200 bones.
What do ya think?
Hi dgoode
[LEFT]If the fuse is good check for continuity between the fuse and L3 (drive motor terminal)[/LEFT]
- If this circuit is open the PCB is bad and must be replaced.
[LEFT][COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]If this is not the issue then it is very possible that there is poor electrical contact between the Touch Pad and the Contact Board. [/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]Before replacing [/COLOR][COLOR=#231f20]the Keypad Assembly check for a foreign material between the Touch Pad and the Contact Board. Examples [/COLOR][COLOR=#231f20]of foreign material include grease, cooking residue, moisture, or residue from cleaning agents. Circuit board [/COLOR][COLOR=#231f20]cleaner or equivalent (available from electronic supply stores) should be used to clean the keypad assembly.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]To diagnose the keypad:[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]1. Disconnect the Keypad Molex plug at the Main PCB and attach leads of an Ohm meter to pins #12 and #13.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][COLOR=#231f20][/LEFT]
[COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]2. Push the UP/DOWN button. This must show a closed circuit[/COLOR]
[LEFT][COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]If the above test does not show a closed circuit, perform the following.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]- Check for grease or any foreign material between the Touch Buttons and the contact board. Clean with an electronic contact cleaner as described above.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#231f20][COLOR=#231f20]- Repeat test above.[/COLOR][/COLOR][COLOR=#231f20]
[COLOR=#231f20]- If the contacts are clear, replace the keypad assembly.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#231f20]- If the circuit is closed, check for 120VAC between contacts N3 and L3 on the main PCB. If voltage is not present, replace the main PCB.[/COLOR][/LEFT]
[/COLOR]
[LEFT]To help you with the right part numbers I need you to post the complete model number of the raised vent.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]Good luck.
Gene.[/LEFT]
[/COLOR]
[/COLOR]
Thanks Gene I’ll start on it this evening.
Keep me updated, please.
Do not forget to post the model number.
Gene.
Dear Gene- I am thrilled to find an actual expert! I have a 14 year old Dacor RV36W down draft vent. So far all appliance parts sites I have visited say that they don’t have that model in their database.
Anyway, My vent comes on and stays on. Sometimes I can get it to retract, and it may stop briefly, but it pops right back up and goes on again. I know I need to clean the Keypad contacts and the contact board it mounts over. One of the contact spots looks corroded- the one that goes under the “filter” button. Do I need to replace the contact board- it costs about $120? Since the problem is with a failure to shut off, I thought the problem might be with the “contact limit switches”, especially the lower one. I hope you can help me, thanks in advance.
Vincent,
The first thing I would do is replace the keypad, then locate the wiring diagram inside the cabinet and check for continuity both limit switches. If the continuity test will show a wrong readings, check alignment of the switches - very often they could be just misaligned.
- The part number for the keypad is AP3394114
Gene.
Thanks for the advice.
I opened the box with the limit switches and determined that the rotating cam arm was not triggering the lower limit switch due to alignment, as you sugested. I enlarged the mounting hole for the switch just enough to move the switch about 1mm closer to the cam and voila, it shuts off. Now, to reassemble the whole mechanism. I am waiting for a new keypad in the mail, and will try it with the old contact board before ordering a new contact board.
Thanks again.
Seems I have a similar problem to Vincent’s last May. My vent just started to slow down by first not going up or down, then the blower wouldn’t run at the low speed and finally it died. I see an overheated diode on the controller board as well as a resistor the looked like it got hot. Not sure if those are the causes of the low blower not running. The vent elevation motor is overheating when I tried to get it to go up. So now it’s up to stay!
From the sounds of things we’re looking at perhaps $200-300 minimum, so I was wondering 1) where can I get some parts in the Pacific NW (haven’t seen squat on the net) or 2) what about a total replacement?
I believe you can order parts from Appliance Parts Pros. Call the customer service to confirm it. Moneywise you have to search the market and compare prices. Also your decision should be based on the age and condition of the unit.
If you would prefer to fix the old unit then you have to perform troubleshooting as described earlier and post the results for a further advises.
Gene.
Hi Gene,
How do I open up the keypad assembly to inspect/clean the touch pad and contact board as described in your earlier post? Thank you so much!
–cc
bought new main CBd for downdraft vent based on erratic behavior up down off on like a ghost. my unit is 1998. only board i could buy was later bersion but Dacor in Calif said CB was “backwards compatible” but parts place nor Dacor would provide any diagram to show how to swap it out. i am electrically inclined and can follow schematics IF i could get one or a service bulletin. everyone says i must pay for a tech to come do it $185.
anyone out there have a solution?
my wife went thru xmas cooking unhappy with me ha
Hi Brain,
What is the part number of the board you received?
Do you have the original electrical schematic or the wiring diagram?
Gene.
i have part at home in orig bag with number on it. there was zero info in the part bag from the firm Fox Appliances in Atlanta. they said call a repairman. there are schematics glued to the vent itself under the kirchen cabinet that i can see or photograph with an iphone. will be a few hours before i can retrieve the above and get back but thanks for quick reply. frustrating that Dacor itself refused to share info they too said an authorized repairman has im their hands. any other info needed to get best help? tx
part number on bag says Dacor 700991 Control Boaed assembly Service RV30/36/46.
Hi Brain,
This new, upgraded board does not look the same but it should have the same connections. What exactly is so confusing with it?
I found and attached the wiring diagram for this model number. It might help you too.
Gene.
RV_Wiring Diagram.pdf (68.1 KB)
Thanks Gene.
i have not tried to connect it up and only sought connectivity advice and diagrams based on the “warnings” from the mftr help line, the parts firm and an authoized svceman ALL of which said it required special hookup of the wiring but none of the 3 parties would say why or provide a schematic
or service bulletin to cover this “Mysterious secret connection info” hence my seeking your detailed advice. my fear was cooking the $173 CB because of some hook error or wire color swap required. so that my friend is the source of the percieved “confusion”. if the swap out is simple then i am over worrying.