My Dacor MW is acting up. What has been an intermittant problem is now become more frequent. The problem is that when I start the MW, using the easy minute button, the fan comes on but the turntable will not turn nor will things get hot. Thats 2 problems. I can manually turn the turntable till I hear the motor turn and then start the MW again and things all work for a few times. I guess that I have a turntable motor problem but my question is, is there a safty feature that will not let the oven heat if the turntable does not turn?
There is no such safety future but the electrical problem with the turn table motor is affecting the current needed for the high voltage part of the microwave.
The part number for the turn table motor is AP3394866
I accessed the turntable motor. I checked the voltage when I started the microwave. No voltage but the system fan started and the light came on. I also tried the convection heating mode and the result was the same. The system fan and light came on but no heat or voltage to the turntable motor. Got any ideas. It is not the turntable motor.
I have removed the MW case and checked for loose connections and have found not.
The turn table motor and the oven light operated by the same relay (RY1) on the control board and if the light goes “on” but turn table does not - the problem is the motor or the wires to the motor.
If the oven light and the fan came on but there is no heat (especially on both the microwave and the convection modes) - the problem is the bad control unit.
I am having the same problem with the identical microwave for a customer of mine. He replaced the motor on his own, but that did not fix the problem. So, he called me. I replaced the control board and the same problem is still there.
All door switches test good, all thermals are good. I have 120 volts to the HV transformer, but no neutral.
This microwave also has no wiring schematic. I am stuck. In 26 years of repairing microwaves, this ranks up there as one of the most frustrating problems I have seen.
I would suggest NOT replacing the control board just yet.
[quote=Matt S;16735]I am having the same problem with the identical microwave for a customer of mine. He replaced the motor on his own, but that did not fix the problem. So, he called me. I replaced the control board and the same problem is still there.
All door switches test good, all thermals are good. I have 120 volts to the HV transformer, but no neutral.
This microwave also has no wiring schematic. I am stuck. In 26 years of repairing microwaves, this ranks up there as one of the most frustrating problems I have seen.
I would suggest NOT replacing the control board just yet.
I am dead in the water on this one.[/quote]
OK…here is what I found out and how I fixed my microwave. As you may recall the problem was intermittant. After being told it was the motor and after changing the $60 motor I found out the motor was not the problem. I was ready to do the control board, but at $200 or so I decidied to give things some more thought. The first thing I checked were all 3 door switched. All three checked ok. Could only be the control panel, right? Wrong. Remember the problem was intermittant and I was told to go back and check the door switched one more time. The guy even told me which one. Sure enough, when I checked the swith for the 5th time, it was bad. A $6 switch and I was back in business. It was the bottom swith I think.
Hello and thank you for writing.
I hadn’t yet tried to cross the Dacor DCM24S to its equivalent Sharp model
yet, but it looks like it’s the Sharp R930AK/AW. And as luck would have it, we
have that full service manual online at all Microwave Display Repair Sharp Dacor GE General Electric
Checking the schematic, your symptoms almost certainly indicate a defective
secondary interlock switch (the bottom one) or its mount (door hook) may be
loose or have a broken tab. You’d also need to be sure that the lower door
latch head (the hooklike device on the door) is activating the lower switch
when the door closes.
It may be subtle, but I honestly feel it’s a problem with the lower switch or
associated wiring.
I would call your attention to the following pages in the service manual: 11,
15, 26, 27, 31, 33.
Bear in mind that the oven will not operate with the cover off unless you
activate the outer case switch. See page 11.
If it’s a bad door switch, and your can’t find one at a local appliance parts
store, home improvement store (Lowe’s or Home Depot, etc.) or Wal-Mart, you
can get them from Tritronics at Consumer Electronics Parts and Accessories: Tritronics, Inc.
If it’s not a door switch, feel free to let me know what you find. Happy to
help.
William E. Miller, AS-EET prototech@usa.net † all Microwave Display Repair Sharp Dacor GE General Electric
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide $39.95
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