I want to check my thermostat before I replace it, but don’t know where it is or how to check. Have Digital ohm meter
Whirlpool Gold Wall Oven
What exactly is wrong with your oven?
Gene.
My wife did the self cleaning operation one day and then next day oven would not work. Door opens, control panel working but no heat. Elements are okay, checked with ohm meter. Figure it has to be thermostat but don’t know where it is or how to check, before i buy new one
Jay,
This is the most common problem with all Whirlpool electric ovens for more than ten years. The oven exhaust heat is escaping from the top of the oven door because the door is not sealing properly. The warmer air is being pulled into the blower fan and directed across the thermo-disc (#37 on the diagram), causing it to open.
You can replace the thermo-disc (aka an oven shutdown thermal fuse) and not use the self clean to avoid such problem, or install a service kit designed by Whirlpool to correct this problem. This is the installation instructions for the kit. It’s not very simple to install and it’s about $175, so read it before you decide if you really need the self clean. If you need the correct part number for the kit, we need to know if it is a single or double oven.
- The oven shutdown thermal fuse AP6014016
Gene.
From what I can tell, Gene hit the problem right on target. We have 2 identical Whirlpool Accubake wall ovens installed side by side in the kitchen. I am now replacing the Thermostat AP3885687 for the 3rd time in one of the ovens. I only have trouble with one oven. I metered everything out the last time I replaced the thermostat and everything was fine. Chalked it up to a faulty thermostat about a year ago when my wife used the self cleaning option. Today, my wife decided to do the self cleaning again and after about 1.5 hours, shutdown-no heat. I thought I better do some research this time before changing out the thermostat. Taking what Gene said on the forum about the leaky gasket between the door and the oven body, my thought was that there should be some telltale signs of this problem and examined both ovens. Sure enough, the oven that is the problem child has burnt residue at the areas where the gasket is leaking and especially at the top corners that lead into the inlet going back into the blower. There are inlets and outlets in that area and if yours is leaking, you can spot it right away. The oven that has worked fine since installation has no sign of leakage at all. I am going to order a new thermostat and gasket and go that route first before I try the replacement kit. Thanks to ‘Gene’ for the detailed write up on this problem.