Suddenly, the burners on this cooktop quit heating. The fan works, the indicator lights come on, but the heating elements do not heat. Is a glass top, with 2 modules, and downdraft fan in the center. I called Maytag/Whirlpool, and they referred me to a repair center. On calling the repair center, they stated they don’t service cooktops. But, they could print me a wiring diagram, and could sell me parts. WONDERFUL! Ok, upon looking at the schematic, all it shows are 4 infinite switches, a fan switch, 2 indicator lights, and a fan relay. I cannot imagine all 4 infinite switches going bad at the same time, I also cannot see both glass burner modules burning out at the same time. I have taken the unit apart, and seeing the fan relay as being the possible culprit, ordered a new one, and it did not solve the problem. When this happened, we used it the day prior, and all was ok. When trying to cook the next day, no heat. I mean nothing popped, or anything else happened, it just doesn’t work anymore. The lady at Maytag had me turn off the breaker for one minute to reset it.. Ok, I don’t see any micropressor, or anything to reset. However, I complied, and of course nothing happened. I have 2 full 120 legs of power coming to the unit. I am baffled. I have also seen a few more posts on this forum about this same type problem with Jenn Air, but nobody posted a solution. Any takers? Oh, all the wiring seems to be intact, and ok. For the amount of money this unit costs, it should work into the year 3000!
See, this is the dilemna, what could possibly kill all 4 infinite switches at one time? There doesn’t seem to be any kind of power control module prior to or after the infinite switches.
I will check to see what kind of power I have going to the burner modules at full on, and post that next. But if there is power there, that would mean the burner modules are bad, but both at the same time? What I do not know, is if there is any controls in the modules themselves. AND I do not know what power is supposed to be coming to the modules.. Again very baffling…
[quote=saterry;158007]See, this is the dilemna, what could possibly kill all 4 infinite switches at one time? There doesn’t seem to be any kind of power control module prior to or after the infinite switches.
I will check to see what kind of power I have going to the burner modules at full on, and post that next. But if there is power there, that would mean the burner modules are bad, but both at the same time? What I do not know, is if there is any controls in the modules themselves. AND I do not know what power is supposed to be coming to the modules.. Again very baffling…[/quote]
Each place where module plugs in has 4 plus ground by the looks. 1 is a shunt for the grill module. I am getting 120v on 3 from each ceramic module plug in. Is there a way to test the modules?
I found an old service manual online.. it gave the resistance values for testing the burner modules, and the modules I have fall within the correct values for the Ceran type burner that I have. NOW I am really stumped.. Got power to the modules, and the resistance for the burners is right.. Now what?
Cannot find the correct voltage values that is supposed to be reaching the burners. When turning the infinite switch from low to high the voltage does not change. I am assuming that a temp sensor in the burner completes the cycling process, might not be the case though.
Just a quick question did you actually measure L1 to L2 for 240 volts.
I did see that you had 2 120 volt legs but this does not tell you that they are 180 degrees out of phase as you might see the same side fed back through a component.
I had the same problem–glass stovetop was working before we went on vacation and turned off the breaker. When we returned home and turned the breaker on the digital display was working, and we could turn on the burners–the lights came on–but there was no heat. I tried flipping the breaker back and forth but nothing worked–at least at first.
I called my neighbor who works on appliances and he said that the digital control panel was getting 120 so that was why it was working, but the burners were not getting the full 220. So I flipped the breaker a couple of more times and it finally worked–the burners started getting heat.
[quote=zoomer;227563]I had the same problem–glass stovetop was working before we went on vacation and turned off the breaker. When we returned home and turned the breaker on the digital display was working, and we could turn on the burners–the lights came on–but there was no heat. I tried flipping the breaker back and forth but nothing worked–at least at first.
I called my neighbor who works on appliances and he said that the digital control panel was getting 120 so that was why it was working, but the burners were not getting the full 220. So I flipped the breaker a couple of more times and it finally worked–the burners started getting heat.[/quote]
wow same problem i had we went on vacations and on my way back to that house i found out few outlets and stovetop burners not working > so i call a friend check my stove volts and it was fine so y flipped the braker and nothing well i end up calling pse&g gas and electric company to come and check my main electrical cable that comes in to my house and there was the problem i was getting on one phase 120 and second phase 106 so it look like by wheter condition cable was bad and i was not getting enogh juice in to my main electrical panel so after that my problem was fix and stovetop burners were working again thanks pse&g of nj and thanks to people who leave coments to fix appliances here
