Unit will stay on sensing no matter what setting its on and will not start. I ran through the diagnostics and was presented with an F25 error. According to the symptoms, it called for the Thermister to be replaced. I replaced it and it still shows the same issue. I also checked ohms between p4-1 and p4-2. And it showed the required 51K ohms. I tested the thermistors (old and new) and they both tested the same. Showing a .3 ohms on the lowest scale and an open when I applied heat to it (it also popped when it got to its limit but popped back into place once it cooled down.) Never did it ramp up in resistance. The fuse connected to the heating element shows 10 ohms. The Moisture sensor shows an open.
I’m at my wits end. (generally does not take me long to get there.) Any assistance is welcomed and appreciated.
See the attachment for the tech sheet. It sounds like you already have this but just in case you do not here it is.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”] I also checked ohms between p4-1 and p4-2. And it showed the required 51K ohms. I tested the thermistors (old and new) and they both tested the same. Showing a .3 ohms on the lowest scale and an open when I applied heat to it (it also popped when it got to its limit but popped back into place once it cooled down.) Never did it ramp up in resistance. [/COLOR]
I do not understand the above. As far as I know there is nothing on the thermistors that pops.
They should just change resistance with temperature. Note that the resistance should decrease as the temperature increases (negative temperature coefficient).
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]The fuse connected to the heating element shows 10 ohms.[/COLOR]
I do not see a fuse in the heater circuit. There is a hi-limit thermostat and it should be 0 ohms. Sounds like you are actually measuring the heater coil , it should be around 10 ohms.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]
The Moisture sensor shows an open.[/COLOR]
This is normal. Note you have to use a high meter scale to measure this.
As far as I know the moisture sensor does not effect the power to the heating coil but advances the timer when the clothes are dry.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]I’m at my wits end. (generally does not take me long to get there.) Any assistance is welcomed and appreciated.[/COLOR]
Sounds like you may be going in circles, I have done that myself many times.
Now that you have taken a break from it give it another shot.
Sometimes getting another person in so you can bounce ideas off them also helps.
First I would recheck the above.
Then you may want to disconnect the thermistor and run diags again. If you get the same error then odds are that it is a control board problem as you should get a thermistor open error (F24). WED6400.pdf (421.0 KB)
I do have the tech sheet but its nice to have it in PDF.
Thanks for the reply!
The 10 ohms was tested from the connections where the Thermister connects its bare lead.
The Thermistor itself would not change in resistance. It just popped and showed an open on the meter. Again this is with the old and the new. Now if the new unit was defective when I bought it, that’s one thing, but it may have became defective when it was installed in the circuit. If that’s the case what in the circuit would cause it to go bad?
[COLOR=“SandyBrown”]Note that the resistance should decrease as the temperature increases (negative temperature coefficient).
[/COLOR] Well since it was already at .3 it could not go any lower, which is why it popped. What should be the reading of this then? Since .3 is obviously way too low.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]If that’s the case what in the circuit would cause it to go bad?[/COLOR]
Since it is connected directly to the circuit board the only part that should effect it is the circuit board.
Strange that it would short usually electronic components blow open or if they do short the damage the board either blowing other components or burning up the tracks on the board.
[COLOR=“DarkRed”]Well since it was already at .3 it could not go any lower, which is why it popped. What should be the reading of this then? Since .3 is obviously way too low.[/COLOR]
The reading for the Inlet Thermistor should be 61,200 to 63,700 ohms at 68 degrees F.
See the chart on Page 9 of the tech sheet.
Check it with it disconnected from the board as parallel resistances on the board could effect your readings.