C4 error Code - GE Dishwasher

Dishwasher Repair
1

I have searched the dishwasher forum for an answer to this problem, but found only one reference to the C4 error code which now stubbornly refuses to clear from my dishwasher. That post (by Donna, 2/22/09), contains some recommendations which have not worked for me, hence this post.

This problem surfaced after I had filled the rinse aid dispenser (which I do monthly). For some reason, what sometimes happens after I do that, is that the dishwasher will foam up (presumably in reaction to an abundance of rinse aid), and spill out the door onto the floor. This time, upon running the first cycle after filling the rinse aid dispenser, the machine went into the C4 error mode, which has never happened before. The C4 error code is supposed to signify “too much water”, or similar, but there is NO water in the machine (except in the sump, where it belongs).

I have tried numerous times to do a “clear/reset”, but it keeps going back into C4. The only way to stop the code and the machine is to shut off the power to the machine by hitting the breaker.

The dishwasher is circa 1990, and has been relatively trouble-free. About three months ago, I replaced the control board and a GE service tech replaced the plunger assembly. That having cost me about $300, I am not ready to simply buy a new dishwasher; I’m invested in this machine.

I have attempted the following in order to resolve this problem:

  1. I removed and inspected the screen in the rear of the dishwasher, and the plunger assembly below it (which is new);

  2. I removed the float cover in the left front of the machine, pushed down on the float to make sure it was operating freely (which it was). However, I don’t know if the switch associated with the float is working properly - and don’t know how to “test” that; one recommendation I had was to replace the float switch. Presumably, you can have a float operating freely, but the switch is bad - which could fool the control board into thinking that there is too much water in the machine. Any suggestions or comments on that?

  3. I replaced the water inlet valve (last night -phew!). Just prior to doing this, I followed up on a suggestion in this or another forum to turn off the water supply and then run the dishwasher, and that would resolve the C4 error. It did - but just temporarily. When I shut the water supply off, and then turned the power supply on, the dishwasher went into the “PF” mode (Power Failure), which then allowed me to enter the normal dishwasher cycles. I then hit the “rinse cycle” and let the machine run for about a minute. I then reset the machine, because I was wary of running the machine without water, lest it damage the pump or something. I then turned the water on, and then went to run the cycle again, but it went immediately back to the C4 mode. I attempted to get the machine into the dishwashing cycle one more time by turning off the water, etc, but it didn’t work - it only returned the C4 code.

At this point, I said “the heck with it”, and went ahead and replaced the water valve - an arduous task. When I powered up the dishwasher again, it went right into the C4 cycle again - NO dice.

So, frankly, I am running out of solutions short of calling an appliance technician. Some of you may be thinking that I have a clogged drain hose, but I’m pretty sure I don’t - I would be getting additional evidence in the form of backed up sinks, etc, and, moreover, I had checked the drain hose about three months ago just prior to the last repair visit.

The only option I can think of is to replace that float switch and see if that does the trick. I’m just taking shots in the dark at this point, so if anyone has some genuine insight into what might be going on, I am all ears. I am entirely open to advice, suggestions, recommendations. :confused:

Have at it!

2

I have tested the float switch by pulling it out of the bracket and holding it down, which I guess simulates that the dishwasher is not full. The dishwasher still went into the C4 mode, but when I opened the dishwasher, there was a little bit of water in the tub, which signifies what - that the switch is working? Not sure what to make of all this.

[quote=jeclose;155415]I have searched the dishwasher forum for an answer to this problem, but found only one reference to the C4 error code which now stubbornly refuses to clear from my dishwasher. That post (by Donna, 2/22/09), contains some recommendations which have not worked for me, hence this post.

This problem surfaced after I had filled the rinse aid dispenser (which I do monthly). For some reason, what sometimes happens after I do that, is that the dishwasher will foam up (presumably in reaction to an abundance of rinse aid), and spill out the door onto the floor. This time, upon running the first cycle after filling the rinse aid dispenser, the machine went into the C4 error mode, which has never happened before. The C4 error code is supposed to signify “too much water”, or similar, but there is NO water in the machine (except in the sump, where it belongs).

I have tried numerous times to do a “clear/reset”, but it keeps going back into C4. The only way to stop the code and the machine is to shut off the power to the machine by hitting the breaker.

The dishwasher is circa 1990, and has been relatively trouble-free. About three months ago, I replaced the control board and a GE service tech replaced the plunger assembly. That having cost me about $300, I am not ready to simply buy a new dishwasher; I’m invested in this machine.

I have attempted the following in order to resolve this problem:

  1. I removed and inspected the screen in the rear of the dishwasher, and the plunger assembly below it (which is new);

  2. I removed the float cover in the left front of the machine, pushed down on the float to make sure it was operating freely (which it was). However, I don’t know if the switch associated with the float is working properly - and don’t know how to “test” that; one recommendation I had was to replace the float switch. Presumably, you can have a float operating freely, but the switch is bad - which could fool the control board into thinking that there is too much water in the machine. Any suggestions or comments on that?

  3. I replaced the water inlet valve (last night -phew!). Just prior to doing this, I followed up on a suggestion in this or another forum to turn off the water supply and then run the dishwasher, and that would resolve the C4 error. It did - but just temporarily. When I shut the water supply off, and then turned the power supply on, the dishwasher went into the “PF” mode (Power Failure), which then allowed me to enter the normal dishwasher cycles. I then hit the “rinse cycle” and let the machine run for about a minute. I then reset the machine, because I was wary of running the machine without water, lest it damage the pump or something. I then turned the water on, and then went to run the cycle again, but it went immediately back to the C4 mode. I attempted to get the machine into the dishwashing cycle one more time by turning off the water, etc, but it didn’t work - it only returned the C4 code.

At this point, I said “the heck with it”, and went ahead and replaced the water valve - an arduous task. When I powered up the dishwasher again, it went right into the C4 cycle again - NO dice.

So, frankly, I am running out of solutions short of calling an appliance technician. Some of you may be thinking that I have a clogged drain hose, but I’m pretty sure I don’t - I would be getting additional evidence in the form of backed up sinks, etc, and, moreover, I had checked the drain hose about three months ago just prior to the last repair visit.

The only option I can think of is to replace that float switch and see if that does the trick. I’m just taking shots in the dark at this point, so if anyone has some genuine insight into what might be going on, I am all ears. I am entirely open to advice, suggestions, recommendations. :confused:

Have at it![/quote]

4

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]We must have posted at the same time. The switch has three wires one is common, One normally open which means that if the float is up the circuit is open this cuts off the water valve. The other wire is normally closed which indicates to the control that the float is up i.e the circuit is closed. If that wire switch is closed when the float is down the control will put up that code. Pull off the wire that is connected to the normally closed NC I believe is a pink wire and see if the code reappears. If it reappears with that wire off I believe the control board is bad. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If I understand you correctly when the code is displayed there isn’t enough water in the tub for the float to rise correct? If so like I said the float is bad or the control. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Be carefull when doing this the wires may be hot. The best thing is the open the door remove the wire and tape then test. Better yet turn the curcit breaker off. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

5

I thought I fixed it!!:stuck_out_tongue:

Here’s what the problem was: Sitting here wondering what to do next, I wondered if I had re-attached the electric leads to the water inlet value properly; had I inadvertently switched them? So I switched the leads, turned the power on, and bang - it went right into the dishwasher cycle mode. I thought I was done.

I turned the power off again, so that I could put the protective shield around the leads, and turned the power back on. Damn - C4 error again.

Beginning to get to my wit’s end here…

6

[quote=applianceman;156123][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]I believe after all you have done you are down to a bad float switch or a bad control board (which you just replaced). If there is no water in the tub and you are getting that code after all you have done these two things are the only choices. You can check the float switch with an ohmmeter. It should be open if the float is up and closed with the float down. If it is open all the time replace it. hope this helps! [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Dishwasher Repair Guide[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/quote]

Thanks for getting back to me - I really appreciate it. I’ve got to possibly correct what I said before, because now I’m not so sure I’m looking at the float switch, but maybe the drain valve sensing switch instead; maybe you can clear up my confusion:

The reason is because the part shown on ************************.com (part 27144) doesn’t look like the switch that is in the left front of the dishwasher which APPEARS to be the float switch because it’s enabled by the float in the left front (I can see that using a mirror). Part 27144 appears to be clear or white and the part I have in the left front of the machine is black.

They both have a thin metal extension that sticks out (I guess that is the switch). I thought that this item in the left front of the machine WAS the float switch, which is easy to get to, but I am wondering of it is actually the drain valve sensing switch.

Is it possible that the switch I thought was the float switch is actually the drain valve sensor switch? The other switch with the metal extension is attached to the solenoid in the middle of the dishwasher. Is THAT the float switch instead?

So I would like to replace this switch as a next step. I looked at the exploded diagram here:

http://www.************************.com/crms.asp?RepAct=2024899&ReqAct=2023399

but I’m not sure which part it is cause there isn’t a key for the part numbers.

7

Okay - let’s assume the thing in the left front of the dishwasher is the float switch - it’s got three wires: Two are white with a pink stripe, and go to one lead; the other is red and goes to the other lead. The other switch connected to the solenoid has only two wires, and since that is a drain solenoid, I have to assume it is the drain solenoid sensing switch.

I had a little trouble understanding what you were saying, as I am not an electrician, but I read between the lines and here’s what I did:

I took one wire off at a time, and then threw the breaker to turn the machine on. In each instance, the machine went into the C4 mode, and would not stop. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to open and close the switch to see if that would have any effect - nothing. I just kept getting the C4 error.

You said to also check the float switch with an ohmeter. I do have such a device, although not well-versed in its use. I turned the dial to check for ohms, then put the test leads on each of the electrical connections to the float switch. When the switch was DOWN (closed), there were numbers displayed the readout (they changed constantly, but there were numbers). When the switch was UP (open), the display read OL - which according to the user’s guide means “there is no resistance encountered across the test leads or the measured value exceeds the range you set”.

Does this mean the float switch is working?

[quote=applianceman;156128][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]We must have posted at the same time. The switch has three wires one is common, One normally open which means that if the float is up the circuit is open this cuts off the water valve. The other wire is normally closed which indicates to the control that the float is up i.e the circuit is closed. If that wire switch is closed when the float is down the control will put up that code. Pull off the wire that is connected to the normally closed NC I believe is a pink wire and see if the code reappears. If it reappears with that wire off I believe the control board is bad. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If I understand you correctly when the code is displayed there isn’t enough water in the tub for the float to rise correct? If so like I said the float is bad or the control. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Be carefull when doing this the wires may be hot. The best thing is the open the door remove the wire and tape then test. Better yet turn the curcit breaker off. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/quote]

8

If the dishwasher ran once (as it did) today, and then reverted to the C4 error code as before, what would that indicate? It seems to me that if the float switch is bad, it would just be bad - and you wouldn’t get the dishwasher running at all. A bad switch doesn’t go “good” and then go bad again.

So I remain stumped. The control board is only three months old - not likely that this is the culprit.

Can it still be the float switch?

[quote=jeclose;156178]Okay - let’s assume the thing in the left front of the dishwasher is the float switch - it’s got three wires: Two are white with a pink stripe, and go to one lead; the other is red and goes to the other lead. The other switch connected to the solenoid has only two wires, and since that is a drain solenoid, I have to assume it is the drain solenoid sensing switch.

I had a little trouble understanding what you were saying, as I am not an electrician, but I read between the lines and here’s what I did:

I took one wire off at a time, and then threw the breaker to turn the machine on. In each instance, the machine went into the C4 mode, and would not stop. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to open and close the switch to see if that would have any effect - nothing. I just kept getting the C4 error.

You said to also check the float switch with an ohmeter. I do have such a device, although not well-versed in its use. I turned the dial to check for ohms, then put the test leads on each of the electrical connections to the float switch. When the switch was DOWN (closed), there were numbers displayed the readout (they changed constantly, but there were numbers). When the switch was UP (open), the display read OL - which according to the user’s guide means “there is no resistance encountered across the test leads or the measured value exceeds the range you set”.

Does this mean the float switch is working?[/quote]

9

One more piece of information: When the float switch was fully connected (no leads disconnected), I pushed down on the switch several times to see if that had any effect on the C4 error - it didn’t.

[quote=jeclose;156186]If the dishwasher ran once (as it did) today, and then reverted to the C4 error code as before, what would that indicate? It seems to me that if the float switch is bad, it would just be bad - and you wouldn’t get the dishwasher running at all. A bad switch doesn’t go “good” and then go bad again.

So I remain stumped. The control board is only three months old - not likely that this is the culprit.

Can it still be the float switch?[/quote]

10

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Ok I was looking a wiring diagram for a similar model that had three terminals on the float switch and I though yours did as well. If this is the case disconnecting the wires will not have any effect on the C4 code. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]What you did with the ohmmeter proves the switch is ok as long as the numbers you got were close to zero and if you disconnected the wires before testing. Other wise you can get a false reading. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]As far as I know the only thing that has anything to do with this are the float switch and the control. I realize the control is new and I can’t say for sure if it is the problem or not. But then again I was looking a diagram that showed three terminals on the float switch. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The switch on the solenoid isn’t the problem it will cause the C2 code rather than the C4. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Look for the mini manual under the dishwasher and see if it says anything about the C4 code and if so post what it says. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

11

Thanks for getting back.

This float switch has only two terminals - but two wires to one terminal, and one wire to the other.

I went ahead and ordered a new float switch anyway (from here - the prices are much better than ************************.com). I scheduled GE appliance repair to come out next Friday to look at it, but if the part gets here first, I’ll install it and see if it does the job. Like you said, this switch MAY be okay - and maybe it IS the control board - notwithstanding that it is new.

LIke I said, there was no resistance when the switch was open (OL) - not depressed.

So you think that means it’s okay?

I think there is additional tech info on the inside of the door; if I get a chance, I’ll take the door apart. It has to be taken apart anyway if the Control Board is the issue.

Let me know if you have any more brainstorms on this - much appreciated.

[quote=applianceman;156226][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Ok I was looking a wiring diagram for a similar model that had three terminals on the float switch and I though yours did as well. If this is the case disconnecting the wires will not have any effect on the C4 code. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]What you did with the ohmmeter proves the switch is ok as long as the numbers you got were close to zero and if you disconnected the wires before testing. Other wise you can get a false reading. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]As far as I know the only thing that has anything to do with this are the float switch and the control. I realize the control is new and I can’t say for sure if it is the problem or not. But then again I was looking a diagram that showed three terminals on the float switch. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The switch on the solenoid isn’t the problem it will cause the C2 code rather than the C4. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Look for the mini manual under the dishwasher and see if it says anything about the C4 code and if so post what it says. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/quote]

12

I went ahead and ordered the float switch… if it doesn’t work, then we’ll know that isn’t the problem, and if your theory is correct, then it is likely a bad control board. So I’ve scheduled GE Appliance Repair to come out this Friday and have a look at it. At least I will have done 90% of the diagnostic work at that point :slight_smile:

Thanks for your help, ApplianceMan, and if you have any more ideas, please feel free to post them here.

Oh - I read that article on using an Ohmmeter - very timely. I’ll go back and do that measurement again, armed with some knowledge this time.

13

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Good may he will find something we are missing, like I said originally I was looking at wiring diagram which obviously not the correct one. Not to mention that control is probably expensive. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]With the float up the meter should read OL and with the float down it should be close to 0 like .25 or something like that. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

14

Okay - I removed the door, and found the technical instructions for various error codes posted there. There are two suggestions there that I found that were not already done: One is to check and see if the water flow is more than 10 seconds longer than it is supposed to be - cause that means it’s out of spec. If it is, it says something like “replace the control”. Yeah - what control?

The other suggestion is to check the “wire harness”. Since I had the door off, I did check as many connections as I could, including those to the control board (I even removed the control board cover to get at it and examine it). They all seemed okay.

I also checked the resistance on the float switch again. It is reading OL when open, and puts up numbers when I depress the switch. I’m assuming that means it’s okay, although I did order a new switch a couple of days ago.

Any thoughts?

15

Did it say how long water should flow? Were you able to check how long water did flow?

What you are saying tells me the float switch is ok but do you know what the number the meter says when the switch is closed. I know it goes up and down (I hate digital meters) but do you know the approximate number.

16

Here’s an update on this still-untractable problem:

On Dec. 11th, GE Appliance Service came out and spend some quality time diagnosing the problem. After checking everything from the float switch to the wiring cable harness, the tech thought that he had found the magic solution - it all seemed so simple: He said, “Just touch the “start” button and the “clear/reset” button at the same time.” It seemed to work. I thought, “Wow - that was easy - why didn’t I think of that?” Indeed, the technician guidelines posted on the inside of the door seemed to suggest just that.

But not so fast. The day after the tech visit, I ran the dishwasher in the rinse/hold mode late in the evening - no problem. But sometime during the night, I woke up and heard the dishwasher beeping - several hours later. I got up and took a look at it - and, sure enough, there it was beeping the C4 error once again.

I touched the “start” and “clear/reset” button - but nothing happened. Turned off the power, turned it back on, and did the same thing - still nothing. And that is where it stands - it is still delivering the same message.

Now, the inside of the door sticker (it’s not a "mini-manual - just a sticker with info for the repair tech) suggests several solutions, including replacing the inlet water valve - which I have done. The float switch was also replaced when the tech was here.

It also suggests checking the wiring harness, which the tech also did. The only suggestion that has not been followed up on is this: It states that if the water fill time if 10 seconds longer than spec, that the control (control board?) may need to be replaced. The tech did not check that to the best of my knowledge.

I called GE appliance repair again, and they told me over the phone (in addition to scheduling another visit on Jan. 8th) that there could be a check valve issue. He said there is a check valve coming off the drain side of the pump, and said this was, to the best of his recollection, in the right rear of the machine. This was also suggested to me by someone else, as follows: “We would suspect a check value issue and water is seeping back into the sump and triggering the overfill fault”.

So this looks like the next avenue to explore. But two questions: Just where is THIS check valve? Is the tech right - it comes off the pump in the middle of the machine? Looking under there, I see the drain solenoid assembly, and the motor, but not seeing a hose coming off off that pump/motor thing. Is it visible from the back of the machine, and accessible from there? Is he referring to the thing that the plunger assembly threads into, below the filter screen in the rear of the dishwasher? I have a picture of this, and it looks like there is a check valve gasket there, but I would have to access it from the rear of the dishwasher, or pull the dishwasher out of its enclosure, which would be a herculean task (for reasons I won’t go into here).

Can you verify that this is the check valve that this is being referred to by both the tech and the other person who provided me advice?

Any other thoughts - such as, would the C4 error with the machine suddenly beeping a code in the middle of the night be consistent with a failed check valve?

[quote=applianceman;156226][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Ok I was looking a wiring diagram for a similar model that had three terminals on the float switch and I though yours did as well. If this is the case disconnecting the wires will not have any effect on the C4 code. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]What you did with the ohmmeter proves the switch is ok as long as the numbers you got were close to zero and if you disconnected the wires before testing. Other wise you can get a false reading. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]As far as I know the only thing that has anything to do with this are the float switch and the control. I realize the control is new and I can’t say for sure if it is the problem or not. But then again I was looking a diagram that showed three terminals on the float switch. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The switch on the solenoid isn’t the problem it will cause the C2 code rather than the C4. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Look for the mini manual under the dishwasher and see if it says anything about the C4 code and if so post what it says. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/quote]

17

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]There is a check valve in the drain hose outlet. I have a hard time thinking this is your problem being that the code is coming up even if there is no water in the tub if I understand you correctly. But it is very inexpensive and worth trying. Water can come in from the sink if the sink were clogged a little. This is why you should have a high loop in the drain hose. In other words the drain hose should run up above the bottom of the sink before connecting to the drain. You will probably have to remove the dishwasher to access the check valve. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

18

Hey, Appliance Man -

I did find the check valve, but not before cutting a large hole in the cabinet panel directly behind the dishwasher, based on the advice I got from the GE appliance service tech :mad: So add the costs of having my cabinetry guy make a replacement panel to the $400 or so I have already spent on this dishwasher since last summer (the bulk of that was an earlier visit to replace the control board).

So after cutting away a large hole in the back cabinet so I could reach the putative location of the check valve, I found that there was no check valve there. In fact, on this machine, it is in the front - easily accessible. I guess I could have checked the dishwasher body schematic, but I decided to trust what I was being told over the phone. So, chagrined, I removed the hose from the check valve, unthreaded it and removed it, and - voila! - found the little rubber gasket with a flapper - the check valve! I was told to look and see if it was distorted or otherwise. Indeed, it is - the flapper part is intact, but it is sitting in a kind of open position.

Now how would that cause a C4 error? I don’t really know. I’m just putting blind trust into advise given me by people who supposedly know more than I do on the subject. Maybe it is misplaced. In any case, I went online and found that this outfit doesn’t carry the check valve anymore, so I had to source it elsewhere. Also, you can’t just buy the 20 cent rubber check valve part - you have to buy the whole check valve. So add another $20 to my bill. It will arrive around Jan. 5th, and the technician is scheduled to visit on January 8th. Maybe there is some magic connection here between the check valve and the C4 error - I can only hope, even if it doesn’t seem to make sense.

Any further thoughts? You should know that the dishwasher DOES have a high loop in the drain - I ascertained that while doing the check valve. If it’s not the check valve, could it possibly be that I have a bad control board - notwithstanding that it was replaced only a few months ago?

19

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I hope it is repaired now!! It would be odd to me if this were causing the code because I was under the impression that there was no water in the washer when the code came up. Water shouldn’t back into the dishwasher from the sink if you have a high loop unless water is backing up to the point that it fills the sink. It would be interesting if the flap repairs your problem so keep us posted. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Sorry for the mishap with you cabinets, I am not sure why they would suggest that! Most of the time dishwashers are not hard to remove from the cabinet. So even if you couldn’t access the flap I would have suggested removing the dishwasher. [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]He may be a good repairman but I wouldn’t want him cutting on my cabinets to access a part on my dishwasher! [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]That would be like saying cut a whole in the outside wall to access the compressor on a refrigerator. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]None of this is directed at you I just don’t know why he suggested such a thing. [/FONT][/SIZE]

[/COLOR]

20

Hey, Appliance Man -

Just to clarify - the GE appliance guy didn’t suggest I cut a hole in the back panel behind the dishwasher - he only said that he thought the check valve was somewhere in the back of the dishwasher, so I took it upon myself to cut the hole to access it, rather than try to pull out the dishwasher, which seemed like the lesser of two evils. The reason is because the front of the dishwasher has been tiled in, and I would probably have to break and/or cut tile to get it out, so until I know the dishwasher is dead and not repairable, I’m not going to do that. So blame me (largely) for destroying my cabinetry, albeit I did get bad advice on that point.

Your point is well-taken: “I was [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]under the impression that there was no water in the washer when the code came up.” That is correct. There is no water in the tub when the code is flashing. But at this point, I am grasping at straws, and it seemed worthwhile to give the check valve theory a try. It that doesn’t work, I’m going to have to suspect the control board, notwithstanding that it was replaced back in July/August. It may be a bad board. Your thoughts? [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]