I have a Bosch SHP865WD5N/10 dishwasher where the control panel/button board stopped responding after a circulation pump replacement (Part #: 12008381 (AP5984938)). I need help troubleshooting before I condemn any parts.
What I’ve done so far:
Confirmed via brown wire pair that power is reaching the control/button panel, and if on/off button is held depressed I am able to trace power back to the computer board in the base of the machine
All connectors throughout the entire unit triple checked and verified seated
Breaker reset performed multiple times, including 30+ minute extra wait
Base pan inspected — completely dry, no water intrusion
Flood sensor float tested — manually triggering it activates the drain pump, confirming the main control board has power
Made sure door was open when checking to see if control button board would light up, which is does not
OTHER:
Child lock concept has not been ruled out, robots online tell me about it but I don’t know where to find it
This unit has no fuses per Bosch technician documentation
Current symptoms:
Control panel completely unresponsive — no display, no button response
Unit was electrically operational before the pump replacement
My question: Before I consider replacing any computer boards, what additional troubleshooting steps should I take? Is there a diagnostic mode, reset sequence, or anything else I should check on this specific model?
As there is voltage reaching the power switch and going back to the power control module, the next step would be identifying if the power module is sending voltage to the user interface. At connection 11 there is a 4 wire connector with red wires. With the black meter probe placed at the red wire on pin 4, the red probe can be placed at the red wire at pin 1 and pin 2. There should be about 13.5 Volts DC. If there is not enough room to get to the red wires, they can be tested at the user interface if extreme care is taken to prevent any wire damage from the interface falling. If the interface is used for testing, it will be tested using the black meter probe at the red wire at pin 4. The red meter probe will go to the red wires at pin 6 and pin 7. Is the voltage present when the power switch is set to on?
If there is a proper 120 Volts AC reaching the appliance, the power control module should be sending voltage out of connection 11 when the on/off signal voltage loops back to the module. Since it is not sending voltage when it should, the power module has a failure within it. 12016882 Program Power Control Module | Genuine Bosch OEM In Stock
Ah ok , I didn’t try cycling the power button on this test, was just looking for voltage out of clip 11 - double checked that and confirmed no voltage change at clip 11 while cycling power button - will get a new brain shipped out now. Thanks for the help!
Part finally arrived, took a week, was a used item, inferior quality as it doesn’t have clip guides, does not look OEM.
Installed it and am still seeing the same issue, no signal out of clip 11.
Deduction points to user interface board but I don’t know of there is logic to do so based on how the machine functions. Any other ideas other than user interface board, and if user interface board is to be replaced can you share why?
The manufacturer now sends out the power control modules without the guides with the expectation of an installer using the guides from the original control. It use to be that the new power control modules came with the guides but it has not been like that for a while. If the console is accessed and secured as much as possible to prevent it from falling, and the door is open just enough to not allow the door switch to activate, is there a steady 120 Volts AC when testing from one brown wire at the power switch to the metal frame of the dishwasher? If there is, does the other brown wire show 120 Volts AC when the on button is pressed? If it does, it may be possible that the meter leads are not setting onto the terminals of the wires and testing can be done using the red wires at the user interface control. At the 7 wire connector, the red wire in the middle at pin 4 and the red wire on the far right at pin 7 would be used for testing. Does this show 13.5 Volts DC? If not, there should be a wire junction point about half way down the door that can be used to test as well.
Paid to have a repairman come and diagnose the issue, found that multiple NTCs on the initial circulation pump I had bought from appliancepartspros.com were faulty and that the original logic board was fine. Will be returning both and got a new circulation pump locally. Thanks for trying to help figure this out anyhow.
A shorted NTC can potentially cause issues with a control operation. An easy check would be disconnecting the wires from the circulation pump, insulate them so they do not touch any metal or become grounded in any way, then apply power to the dishwasher. When the on button is pressed, does the display illuminate and potentially an error code show up? If the user interface does start working, it confirms there is a shorted NTC in the circulation pump.