I have a Bosch gas range. Please see issues below. I initially thought it was the igniter but neither the Broil igniter up top nor the Bake igniter below get hot, so wondering if it could be something else. The stovetop burners work fine. Any help would be appreciated.
Brand: Bosch Model Number: HGI8054UC /03 Main Symptom: Bake and Broil functions not working. It says “pre-heating” but never kicks in What happens & when: I push the “bake” or “broil” button, enter temp, and it says pre-heating, but nothing happens. All of the stovetop burners works fine and there is power to the appliance (the display is electric).
Error Code (if any): no error code
Parts or tests already tried: the broil igniter does not get hot; i didn’t pull off the pan to check the bake igniter, but I suspect it does not, either.
Photos / video link:
This is likely a relay control failure. If you access the back of the range with the gas supply turned off, and test the bake or the broil igniter for 120 Volts AC from wire to the metal frame with a multimeter, is voltage present during a cooking cycle respective to the igniter being tested?
Thank you for the reply. Multimeter arriving tomorrow. Will test and post results. Am I understanding your comments correctly that I should test while a bake or broil cycle is going?
Hi. I was finally was able to do the voltage testing on my Bosch Rangetop with the multimeter. I disconnected the wire connectors for both the bake and broil igniters, and then used the multimeter to test against the respective wire connector terminals with each cycle (bake and broil) turned on.
Both of them registered around 119 volts. I also did a continuity test for each of the igniters; one of them def tested positive for continuity, and the other one I wasn’t too sure about. The problem is that the space in the connector is so small that I had trouble getting the multimeter test leads to contact the metal connector terminal thingy’s on the igniters, so on the 2nd one I wasn’t sure if it was negative for continuity or if I just couldn’t make contact with the test leads.
Anyway, I did also check continuity on the safety valve just in case, and it tested positive, so that’s at least not likely the problem.
Does that point to the relay control? I can test that, too, but I’d removed the wiring diagram from the back of the range the first time I pulled it out and stupidly somehow misplaced it (have looked high and low). Any idea where I can find one online? Have looked on line a bit and haven’t been able to find one. (assuming that’s the next step?) Thanks!
If there was 120 Volts AC reaching the igniters when testing from wire to wire on the igniter harness connector, and the igniter does not glow, then the igniter would be the cause of failure since it has the voltage needed to operate. Here are links to each part.
While unlikely, it does happen. I like to say voltage does not lie. If a part is receiving the voltage it needs to operate, in this case cause the igniters to glow, the part has failed if it is not doing what it should.