I’m pretty sure I need to replace the float switch in this dishwasher but I’m finding it very difficult to access. Are there instructions available to show how to get at this? (Drain pump runs continuously, cycles do not advance, diagnostic test stays on 0 and cycles don’t advance in diagnostics either.)
Have you checked the base of the dishwasher for a possible water leak?
Gene.
I don’t see any leaks in the base.
You have to remove the dishwasher from the cabinet and remove the left side panel. This job is not too difficult.
- The level switch assembly AP2802390
Gene.
Hi, Ive got similar problems. I cant remove side panel till I take off ther top panel. I just cant see how to get the top off. I understand I’m looking for clips to push or similar. Can’t see anything that will push, or squeeze!
Are they on the back? Can anyone a give precise answer ( Mine is an SGS 4012.
Apologies to original questioner, but hope this helps.
Rupert
In the past, occasionally a small amount of grayish water has leaked from the machine (probably fewer than one cycle in 50) and I do have seepage into the tub which sometimes becomes visible if the machine isn’t run for a couple of days.
[QUOTE=Gene;134838]You have to remove the dishwasher from the cabinet and remove the left side panel. This job is not too difficult.
- The level switch assembly AP2802390
Gene.[/QUOTE]
Gene,
Sorry, didn’t see your reply. Thanks. I had tried to remove that panel but was unsuccessful. I’ll try again.
The side panel is secured with a few screws around.
Gene.
Replacement of the level switch assembly has fixed the problem–thanks. Now I have to stop water from seeping in I believe through the drain hose even though I restored the loop in the hose higher than the drain.
It can be a bad water inlet valve as well.
Gene.
Thanks–I may try replacing that too. But more problems–after an apparently successful regular wash cycle, motor will not shut off again and it won’t cancel (although display does show “CL”). Test program shows aqua sensor and heating faults, which didn’t show up before. Test program will not advance beyond that. Can you suggest a next step?
Might be something wrong with the float switch installation or reading by the control module.
Gene.
The float switch seems ok, but I’ve been running the machine with the panel off to watch it and when filling, the water inlet system is overflowing out of the overflow hole (or vent–whatever the hole is designed for) and the heater may not be working. Is there a likely part failure causing the overflow?
Check the correct performance of the water fill system. The file with the descriptions is attached to the reply.
Gene.
Water fill assembly.pdf (413.4 KB)
Thanks. I’ve got a pressure-fill system. I removed the water inlet system and water level switch housing assembly. Switches seem to be functioning. I did notice that the O rings that go around the level switch assembly and where the water inlet system connects to the water level housing assembly do not make a seal (there are gaps). I reassembled and ran through a regular sysle. It works, but only if I plug the vent hole in the water inlet system whenever the tank is filling to keep water from flowing out of the vent. I noticed a lot of air mixing with the intake water from both the water inlet system-water level housing assembly connection and through the water level switch assembly. Should those be seals or is there something else that might be causing the overflow?