My washer stopped spinning (no rotation of the drum whatsoever), and I think from other posts it is the motor brushes. I’ve stripped it down to the motor being ready to remove (disconnected motor mounting bolts and the wiring harness), but the motor won’t budge off the mounting posts. Two questions:
Should I remove the motor to access the brushes, and if so, what’s the trick, and
How do I remove and reinstall the brushes themselves - the flat piece with the soldered connector needs to come off, but I don’t see how that is supposed to work.
FYI, I’ve been using a mirror to examine the brush mount assemblies…
Thanks!
I was able to remove the motor (pried gently with screwdriver at rear mounting posts) so that’s solved, but still don’t see how to remove the carbon brushes.
Yes, it was the brushes. In fact, I had to order them so I cleaned up the old ones which were quite worn down (probably 2/3 gone) and reinstalled them and the washer has been going strong since. I have an appointment in my Treo’s calendar to install the new brushes in December '08 (assuming it is still going then). btw, I’ve owned the washer for about 5 years. Now I have a new issue that I haven’t been able to research yet, the fabric softener dispenser seems plugged because when the wash cycle finishes the dispenser is full of water. I also have the matching dryer and it is not taking it’s loads to complete dry on the automatic setting.
Hope this helps…
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Thanks for the reply. I actually tapped on the brushes and the washer now spins. I’ve placed some new brushes on order and will just replace them when they come in.[/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Replies to your other issues (should probably go in a new thread).[/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Fabric softener: I had this same issue a few years ago and it reoccurs every couple of years. You are correct, it is related to a clog. To fix the problem you need to remove the detergent tray (pull the tray out, then using your thumb press on the blue plastic “button” and pull the tray completely out). Remove the blue plastic thing. Residue that forms the clog is usually in both the blue plastic piece and the detergent tray. Pipe cleaners and cotton swaps work well for cleaning both pieces. The tray should be cleaned at two points, where the fabric softener pours out and the tube on which the blue plastic piece attaches[/SIZE][/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Dryer: I haven’t had this issue. However, I would be interested to know what the problem is and the final resolution. Below is another link that has good info too, you might check there as well.[/SIZE][/FONT]
I have never replaced the drum bearings so I can really help you much. However, here is a link to a diagram of the drum assembly. Maybe it will be helpful?
Even if you remove lint from the lint filter after every load, eventually, the fine holes in the filter will completely clog from dirt and super-fine lint. Soak the filter in a solution of hot water and detergent and scrub clean with a brush or wash cloth. When completely clean, the fabric in the filter should resemble brand new pure white women’s nylons.
I have the same problem with the motor. I have the motor out of the machine (WFL 2060 UC) but can not figure out how to remove the old brushes. From the photo of the replacement brushes on this website it appears as if the carbon, spring and clip should just slide out leaving behind the plastic holder, but I don’t see what’s holding them in. Can you please describe the process?
I have the same problem with the motor. I have the motor out of the machine (WFL 2060 UC) but can not figure out how to remove the old brushes. From the photo of the replacement brushes on this website it appears as if the carbon, spring and clip should just slide out leaving behind the plastic holder, but I don’t see what’s holding them in. Can you please describe the process?
Thank you,
Keith
Lodi, CA[/QUOTE]
If they’re the same as mine, you first remove the connector which should expose the copper blade connector. Then you slide the copper blade slightly forward to line up two notches toward the rear, pull the rear side up then slide out the terminal.
Apologies if this doesn’t seem to make any sense (or if it’s completely unlike the model you’re working with.)
Thanks to everybody who posted to this thread. I replaced the 2 motor brushes for $35 and my WFR2460 is as good as new.
I had a technician look at it and he said it needed a new $465 motor. Lousy advice for $70. He should have known motor brushes wear out and need to be replaced from time to time. I am going to demand my money back.
Regarding replacement, I found it easiest to do this from the bottom and not mess with removing the motor, belt, etc. Reinstall the brackets that secure the drum for moving, flip the washer on it’s top. Use wire cutters to clip off the 6 rivets that hold the bottom panel and it should come right off. Push the remaining rivet heads through, catching them in your hand.
Next, cut the tie wrap holding the wiring bundle next to the connector and unplug the connector (squeeze the two tabs and work it out). The old brushes were worn down to 1/2 inch and I’m virtually certain the brush conductor wire was fully extended and prevented the brush from reaching the motor armature. Another post explained how to get the brush clips out and to put the new ones in. Piece of cake. I’m now going to replace my noisy pump (it ate one too many bobby pins) and will pop in some new rivets to secure the bottom panel.
I read this and it worked. I removed the rear panel on the bosch axxis wfl 2060 and tapped the brushes and the drum spins. I just ordered some new brushes, and am still not totally clear on how to replace them. If there is another thread with better instructions and you have it bookmarked, please post a link, thanks.
Well I just did this on my Bosch Axxis WFL 2060 stackable washer. I had already tapped the brushes once and got it to work… for a month. In the meantime I had ordered new carbon brushes.
Some tips (for my machine):
Remove the motor. You can get one brush done with just removing the back of the machine, but the other is not accesible. To remove the motor first disconnect the blue wiring harness, just push it towards the front of the machine. Cut the small cable tie that attaches the wires to the motor. Also disconnect the small green wire. Then you just undo the two big bolts on the back (10mm, i think) and pull it off. The belt just slides easily off of the big drum wheel.
It is a pain to stuff the new long carbon brush and all the spring in there and then pop the little clip back on. It took me many tries, but I got it.
Hopefully that fixed it. My brushes had maybe 10% left after 8 years.
Just went through this, place a rather larger flat screw driver blade underneath the mounts with the 10mm bolts and gently pry a little at a time on each mount. It will suddenly give and you can then easily lift the motor out. Its much easier to do if you remove the back plate and tilt it forward making sure no pressure is applied where it could damage you door or the knobs of the circuit board. The brush come out quite easily. You will need a needle nose pliers of small to medium size. Remove the clip on electrical terminal. Carefully bend the tabs hold the brushes in, outward. The new brushes are approximate $45 for the pair and are about 1 3/4 to 2 inch long. Going in is a little trickier. I used a small common screw driver to keep the spring aligned while push the spring in the holder then gently bending one lead at a time to secure the brush. You’ll want to run the brushes in. I did this by placing the machine in the spin mode 600 and ran it up to 1000 as the brushes wore in. I then blew out the motor of the carbon dust with compressed air.
Hi, I’m having the same problem with my Bosch washer. Should I order 2 or 4 replacement brushes? I have someone coming to take a look and want to be prepared. Thanks, patty
Actually, when you order your parts from Bosch (part 154740/$35), they indicate a package of 1 that contains the two brushes that you need. The video presentation by espares in the UK shows how to easily install the brushes after the motor is removed. Removal of the motor appears easier in the video than my first attempt. Replacing the brushes is tedious but relatively easy. The use of a small screwdriver to keep the coil and wire aligned is good advice. My brushes were but 6 mm long after about 8 years of service. See below for pdf file showing the brushes before and after.
See photo for brushes and motor in this inquiry. After the motor was removed, the brushes were replaced and the motor reinstalled. A new drive belt was then installed (see espares for help) with the use of a plastic tie to keep the belt on the drum pulley. The old belt had “grown” about 3" compared to the new and was compromising my washing experience by slipping during use before the brushes expired. After installing the new belt on the drum pulley, I removed the plastic tie, replaced the back on the washer, reconnected the water, and placed the drain in the sump.
At first I used the SPIN cycle and it worked without significant noise or clatter. I then proceeded to wash six loads of dirty clothing that had accumulated during the three day outage. Parts had been ordered directly from Bosch in New Bern NC and arrived overnite. And she still works. BOSCH WASHER PHOTOS 2.pdf (334.0 KB)
Hello and thank you for all the previous posts. My machine was not spinning at all, and we checked the brushes by following the directions posted here, and found them worn down. We had 2 error codes, which pointed to a motor problem (but did not specifically point to worn brushes). We are ordering the brushes today, and that should solve the problem.
Please consider replacing the drive belt along with the brushes. If brushes are worn down, you are probably not providing power to your motor and nothing else will work no matter what you do to the motor. Make sure you insert the new brushes into the slots with the correct orientation. The coil springs attached to the new brushes are very loose and somewhat difficult to compact and insert into the slot. When you reinstall the motor on the mounting posts, you might find a slight tap with a rubber mallet will help to seat the motor. Replace the two mounting screws and then install the drive belt. A new drive belt will seem to be smaller than the one you removed before you attempted to remove the motor. But be patient. Place the belt around the small idler pulley on the motor and then on the large diameter drive pulley by rotating the large pulley clockwise. I used an electrical quick tie to keep the belt on the pulley as I rotated. Then, it suddenly snapped smartly into place. Remove the quick tie and replace the back of the washer before connecting the power. Connect the power. If the drum does not rotate, the motor is defective and must be replaced.
