Brand: BOSCH Model Number: SHX8PT55UC/02 Main Symptom: BEEPS at 2 min. 15 seconds- 3rd WATER FILL What happens & when: BEEPS
Error Code (if any): NO CODE
Parts or tests already tried: REPLACED DIVERTER. WATER PUMP (OUT); Heater/CIRCulation PUMP, but maybe wrong part # (it fit physically and electrically, but newer part number… 12008381- it said it fits 800 series which this one is. Otherwise, it seems like the circ./heat pump I need might be 00753351) Changes WATER INLET SOLENOID. CHANGED MAIN MODULE in the bottom rear of machine. There are NO WATER leaks. New Hoses and new outlet cord. High Loop over 32".
There are many different models and revisions that would fall under the 800 series. With this being the case, it is definitely necessary that the part number listed for your model by the manufacturer is used. From what I am seeing, the circulation pump and heater assembly would be 00753351. I am not sure if the 12008381 circulation pump and heater assembly would work properly. However, with the dishwasher powered off, press and hold the Express and the Rinse buttons. With them held down, press and hold the on/off button until P0 shows in the display. Once it displays, release all of the buttons then press Rinse. This should enter the dishwasher into an error retrieval mode. Press and hold the Rinse button to see the storage location (C followed by a number), then release it to see the error code. Does an error code show up? Pressing the on/off button will exit this mode. 00753351 Circulation Motor And Heater Assembly | Genuine Bosch OEM In Stock
Thanks a lot William. I tried entering error retrieval mode but it did not work. I tried exactly what you said, but again, no luck. Then I tried a few slight variations, several times, like holding power or releasing it first, holding ALL 10 seconds and still nothing. PO on the display means Power Outage and needs a hard reset.
Funny, I just had a factory tech out and he would not tell me the secret trick. He literally smiled and said it was “secret” and job insurance. He also did not fix it.
As you also said, the tech suspected the cir. pump/heater since it is not detecting the water on the 3rd attempt to fill. These machines cycle at least twice to measure and calibrate. If it does not sense all is good, it beeps (on 3rd try.)
I had purchased the common, but apparently wrong (newer) part. Triple checked. It IS listed for my machine, on many websites, but I noticed it is physically about 15% smaller and lighter. All the connection matched and fit together. I guess these motors have firmware or PCB’s that are very model specific. I should have noted the exact part # that came out. I did not and already threw it out. He did not have the older pump in stock.
I was able to figure it out. You have to Press ON, then RELEASE it. Then I hit Rinse and Express together. I got a E18 error message which is for water inlet valve, but I already changed that out with BOSCH 00628334. They said it is a clogged hose, or this valve MORE than it is the circ. pump/heater. The latter is often code E09- so I might have thrown out (away) a perfectly good pump…though if I recall, it was NOT getting very hot. Any thoughts please? I will check for blockages- remove the little hose and make sure it and all filters are very clear. Water seems to flow in just fine though- and the new inlet valve opens hard (good.) Tech even commented “you have great water pressure.” All water was filling up the side plastic channels.
The circulation pump is used to identify if the proper amount of water is present based on the current draw of the motor. The power control module uses the current draw to identify if the circulation pump has enough water to flow through properly. When the dishwasher throws the error code, how far above the sump is the water reaching? Just after it does the 2nd water fill, if you open the door and add in 2 cups of water then resume the cycle, will it progress through or does it throw the error again?
Thanks. So I put in the new (correct) circulation/heater pump but now I only get two red lights flashing on the top panel, RINSE AID and . I also noticed, the LED lights are not coming on when I open the door. The switch is good. I removed it, put the magnet in the spot and it does not seem to detect it. I have 3 main module computers- all are doing the same exact thing. It does not start. No open water inlet. No motor noise. Weird, as it was not doing this before. I have voltage at the plug and good water pressure at the inlet valve.
ANY THOUGHTS PLEASE? No codes and not able to even enter Diagnostic mode.
If you access the power control module wire connection X5 and test from the wire at pin 5 to the wire at pin 7 for Volts DC, what voltage reading do you find? This can also be done at the door hall sensor to identify if that voltage is reaching the door sensor. Also, what was the other LED that was flashing? With the power supply to the dishwasher turned off, are there any loose wires that can be found?
Thank you very much William. Are you referring to the small white module in the top of the door? If so, that cover comes off, but I think it is the backside of the PCB board. Maybe I can unplug and flip it around?
I am not sure where is pin 5 or 7. Is there a website where I can find schematics for both modules?
The LED strip wires (2 red) had pulled out. Put them back, where they seemed to fit on top of the main control module (bottom.) but it only read 0.24v so basically FAULT? The plug off the LED has 3 copper contacts- the module has only 2 copper contacts. But it is keyed correctly. Seems to be the right location given wire length and no other spot I can see for it to plug into.
I have 3 good main modules- all report the same. Slow, flashing RINSE and SANITIZE lights on the touch display. I have tried ALL the common reset methods…many times.
Where is the Door sensor? The one on top that goes into the switch for the magnet? I jumped the wire yesterday, but nothing changed. Un-jumped, or OPEN, I would expect the LED lights to light up. They do not. I am also not able to INPUT any commands on the touch panel. It worked the day before just fine. Should I reinstall, the old Circ./Heater Pump to see if that fixes anything? The one that is in was verified as the correct OEM part. The one I would put back is smaller and for newer models. I guess I ordered wrong so I replaced with the new one that costs twice as much.
No lose wires anywhere and I wiggled them all too. With the door off, sometimes those control wires get pulled a little.
Can you please verify where I should plug in the two red wires that are for the LED light strips? They run up the outside and top of the unit- flat, 1" tan paper-like material. They go to two small LED lights on the inside, top of the door. They used to turn on when the door is open. There are (2) red wires that come off the LED strip- but the plug has 3 copper strips…on top of that module, there are only 2 copper strips. The system runs off of DC- I think 24V. It tests .024V only. With door open or closed.
Here is a short VIDEO. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EtX49v8JYdBDNEOeSgqHSCPwKHSGWdzR/view?usp=sharing Notice how the LED inside do not come on. I am not sure if these two red LED wires are plugged into the right spot on the module- they pulled out when I was not looking. There are two red wires, but the plug has 3 copper contacts. Module has only 2 copper contacts. I measured and it is only showing 0.24V only- not 12v or 24v DC.
No other signs of life- no noises, pump sounds- dead. Cannot program any cycles. Like it is in a FAULT and frozen mode. All major parts are new sans the touchscreen and power supply. I have three (3) good Main modules. One recently, direct OEM from Bosch and fully programmed. All same part # for my machine…based on the sticker.
It was not doing this particular behavior before I changed the heat/circ. pump. Should I throw the old one back in? I switched back to the old, functioning inlet solenoid last night but it did nothing. Could it be the TOUCH PAD?
Here is a schematic of what your appliance should be wired like at the user interface control. Unfortunately, it does not provide wire colors. The door sensor would be the gray piece on the door where the magnet engages. What manufacturer part numbers are currently in from what has been replaced? For example, heat and circulation pump 0053351, programmed control module 00752744, or water inlet valve 10023852 (examples pulled directly from the manufacturer’s part information page).
Thanks again. I assume the Power Control Module, is the main module (Bottom.) What is the module above it? Do you have a full-image to share. This looks like half. I only have two modules, this seems to show 3- or parts of one. It’s confusing.
Looking at the schematic, do you know where the two LED lights plug into the main module? Are they P3 (1)? But that does not match on the side of my module. I am thinking now that maybe those LED’s do not plug in on top of my module. Looking more closely at the connections, I don’t think the metal bits line up…but I am at a loss as to where my two red LED wires connect to.Can you tell me by looking at the schematic please?
You should have access now to the video clip I put in my post.
The power control module would be the control at the bottom right of the appliance while the power supply unit is the white box on the door with the user panel. From what I see, there are only two possible lights that would have went to the power control module at the bottom and of the two, only the light bar for the dishwasher interior would have two wires. The light bar, or light and cable assembly, would connect to the X10 connector at pin 5 and 6. This connection should be on the side of the power module, not on the top. However, the info light at the bottom right of the door near the hinge would have 2 wires that go to the power supply unit at the top of the door at connection X5. Here is an image of what the power module at the bottom should look like connection wise, along with the wire schematic showing where the power supply unit and the power module are connecting in comparison to where the light bar wires should be connecting.
Thanks again. I had high hopes for this…but no luck. I tested 16VDC always at the door switch wire (always on?) No inside LED is coming on and still have the two flashing lights- Sanitize and Rinse. Motor chugs for 1/2 second (self-test?) then stops. Only flashing lights. Nothing else.
Do you know any other pins I can test? Do you know how I can test to know if the POWER SUPPLY unit is BAD? It IS getting 16VDC across the pins you told me to test. No idea about if the capacitor or other components are working. Trying to hunt down this fault. I doubt 3 main modules (bottom/right) are all bad. I also tried every combination of button presses, power off, unplugged and same result.
I am happy to test using my meter if you can kindly direct me as to which areas you would probe. Seems you are an expert and I am clearly not- much appreciate your help. Oh- and I reconnected the OLD (but sort of working) Circ./Heat pump and as expected- no change. Swapped out Inlet things too- no difference. Maybe POWER SUPPLY? But ChatGPT said that is only the issue 9% of the time.
Someone online posted of similar issues. It was not the control board in the bottom- had to swap the whole display board inside door (two boards- one long and one small) and also the timelight in the bottom. Do you think that would help me? If so, do you have part numbers? I can pin out contacts. Not sure I see many values on the schematic you sent. If you tell me what to check with my meter, I will.
I plugged in as you suggested. Since still no luck, at this point, before I REPLACE e.g., upper control boards (under touch-panel) and/or the Power Supply (small one, in the door), are there any test (pin) procedures you can please recommend? If you sell them, do you have those part #'s please? E.g., On Power Supply. Upper Boards (under panel), etc. Everything else has basically been replaced.
TESTS SO FAR…
The smaller (in door) Power Supply board w/ribbon cable IS receiving ~16 VDC from the main module.
The Door switch wire are getting about ~16VDC at all times, all conditions open/closed.
LED interior are still NOT coming on (tried all 3 modules.)
Seems there is a short or fault “somewhere.” Sanitize and Rinse- fast flashing at the same time.
Was the wire connection for the LEDs set to the location based on the wiring layout (side of the power module at the bottom)? If it was, and the problem is still occurring, the next step would be verifying wire connections are where they should be. This is due to the bottom power control module having 16 Volts DC going to the power supply unit in the door as there should only be 13.5 Volts DC from what I am able to find. Here is what I was able to compile on what wires should go where on the power control module based off what parts the wires are connected to. The wire colors might be different, however, this is based off of what information I was able to find throughout the manufacturer’s database for your model. If everything checks good, it would be very likely that the user interface control or the power supply unit are causing the failure. If the ribbon is disconnected from the power supply unit and voltage does not change to 13.5 Volts DC going to it, the power supply unit would be the more likely between the two. If voltage does change, the user interface panel would be the more likely.
