Hello All, we bought a used dryer off of Craigslist, not sure of age . It works, but takes two cycles to dry a load of clothes, old dryer would only take one cycle.
Today I decided to have a look at it. I continuity checked the high limit, thermal fuse, and cycling switch. All had continuity. I don’t have an electric hot plate with a digital thermostat to check what temperature the cycling switch is disconnecting.
Any thoughts, suggestions, or recommendations?
Thanks!
That’s a 2006 model. Could be excess lint buildup inside the lint chute and/or blower housing, blower wheel slipping on the motor shaft, faulty cycling thermostat or something else causing low heat. Really need to check that thermostat.
Eric
[QUOTE=fairbank56;889873]That’s a 2006 model. Could be excess lint buildup inside the lint chute and/or blower housing, blower wheel slipping on the motor shaft, faulty cycling thermostat or something else causing low heat. Really need to check that thermostat.
Eric[/QUOTE]
Is there anyway to check the thermostat besides having a temp adjustable hot plate? I wonder if I could turn my stove top on low, check the temp with my heat gun and set the thermostat on the burner?
[QUOTE=fairbank56;889873]That’s a 2006 model. Could be excess lint buildup inside the lint chute and/or blower housing, blower wheel slipping on the motor shaft, faulty cycling thermostat or something else causing low heat. Really need to check that thermostat.
Eric[/QUOTE]
I took the lint chute off, inspected it and cleaned it. It didn’t look too bad although there was a nice pile of compacted lint below the outlet. I turned the dryer on with the lint chute off and the blower wheel seems to be turning just fine. I will try and dry a load of laundry now that I did this, but am thinking that wasn’t the problem since it didn’t have excessive buildup.
I think I may have just figured something out. I left the back off the dryer after doing the continuity tests and I put a load of laundry in it. I took a couple reading using my infrared temp gun. I pointed it at the thermometer and as soon as the thermometer body hit 106 degrees farenheit the heating colis shut off. I can tell the heating coils go off because the “orange glow” goes away. I watched it do this several times.
Does that prove my cycling thermostat is defective? Isn’t it not supposed to shut off until 120-160 degrees?
Can anyone confirm that from what I saw my cycling thermostat is bad or is there anything else I should look at before going ahead and ordering the cycling thermostat?
Thanks!
anyone? anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
The cycling thermostat on the blower should open at 155 and close at 130.
It is hard to say if it is bad as you were measuring on the back and not on the metal face which actually does the temperature sensing.
It may well be worth replacing it.
Thanks Denman! I believe it’s a relatively cheap part so like you said it’s probably worth replacing.