First I was getting the F1 code and the oven functions would shut off, sometimes after heating up to 350. Then none of the oven touch buttons responded at all when touched. I removed the ERC, and then replaced it after a couple days (hoping for a miracle) and all the oven buttons were responding, but oven shuts off a few seconds after be turned on. (It’s a convection model.)
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA ARTC7600LL | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a service manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/S232_1R2.pdf
I would run the diagnostics to see if anything pops up.
The F1 does say that the problem is the control board (watchdog circuit) unfortunately they do not tell us exactly what they are checking.
At the top of my list would be the relay board specifically the transformer.
Strange that an error code does not come up.
Unplug the unit and disconnect/reconnect all plugs going to the control board. Also check the wires and pins for any sign of corrosion or loose/poor connections.
If the above does nothing then you may want to call a pro in for this, unless you have a meter and some electrical/electronic experience.
Thanks denman. You’re referring to the diagnostics in the service manual (such as Quick Test, etc.)?
Yes, hopefully you will be able to get into them.
Results of Quick Test:
Clean: -1-- (plus — for temp)
Bake: DLB (plus — for temp), “Bake” not lit
Conv. Bake: DLB (plus — for temp), “Bake” not lit, Fan on
Convection: DLB (plus — for temp), “Conv.” not lit, Fan on
Broil: DLB (plus — for temp), “Broil” not lit
Conv. Broil: DLB (plus — for temp), “Broil” not lit, Fan on
Stop Time: 07 0 (plus “050” or “045” for temp), Panel light on, beeps
Cook time: 07 0 (plus “050” or “045” for temp)
Timer: DLB (plus — for temp)
Clock: all lit
Oven Light: oven light on
Panel Light: 07 0 (plus “050” or “045” for temp), beeps
Slew keys: cycle through a bunch of 4-charcter codes
Looks like none of the Element control relays are closing.
Could be they are not getting a close signal from the control board
OR
the DLB relay is not closing.
The power supply that powers these relays is OK because the fan and light both work.
I would check the Oven High Limit thermostat. It should be 0 ohms at room temperature. From the info they give us I am unsure whether this would kill all power to the Relay Board or just kill the oven elements.
Thanks. The oven high limit switch checks out OK. What should I check next?
You could check that the relay board is getting the 240 volts it requires to run the elements.
Sometimes you can hear the relays for the elements closing.
NOTE: Be very careful, 240 volts is lethal.
It may be best to call in a pro depending on how much electrical experience you have.
From what I can see the 3 most likely causes would be.
- The relay board is not getting 240 volts
- The DLB relay is not closing, as this is common to all 3 elements. Could be it’s contacts are shot, it’s coil is open or it is not getting the signal from the control board to close.
- The control board is shot and is not activating any of the relays.
Since the error you see is a control board error that would be at the top of my list.
I performed the checks in the manual (pg. 25) for the transformer/relay board (the one at the bottom on the back of the stove). The DLB checked OK at 240 VAC, but bake, broil and convection showed no voltage. (Question: at the beginning of the DLB check blurb on pg. 25, it says “[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Drive voltage indicated at J1 connector Pins 1 - 3.” Can you tell me what that means?)
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
The relay coils are driven by a 24 volt DC supply.
We know this is OK because other relays work.
We also know from your check of the DLB relay that we have 240 volts across the elements and relays therefore the relays are not closing to provide the 240 to the elements.
What we do not know is if the control board is supplying the drive voltage (24 volts DC) to the bake,broil and convection relays when it should.
I would say that this is the drive voltages they are referring to.
Since Pin 1-J1 shows that it is grounded I would say that Pin 3-J1 has the 24 volts DC on it when the DLB relay is being actuated.
Now Pin 3-J1 is common to all 3 other relays so we can assume that the relays are turned on by supplying a ground connection on the control board.
If you measure between pins 3 and 5 on J1 when the bake element is supposed to be on you should see 24 volts DC as an example.
It does sound like the control board is kaput.
Hope the above makes sense!!
I tested the J1 pins (3-5, 3-6, and 3-11) for 24 VDC by connecting one lead to each of the two pins in those sets, then touching (and holding) the respective bake, broil and conv. button, heard the relay engage, but got 0 volts in each case. Does this indicate the ERC/control module is bad, or could it also be the glass touch pad panel? (I’m wondering why the buttons responded for a while during the last testing I did, then stopped responding all together - then they begin responding again after a “rest”.)
[COLOR=Blue]Does this indicate the ERC/control module is bad, or could it also be the glass touch pad panel? (I’m wondering why the buttons responded for a while during the last testing I did, then stopped responding all together - then they begin responding again after a “rest”.)[/COLOR]
Without having the schematics for the boards which are not available, it is a bit of a crap shoot.
Only Thing you may want to try is the signals from the adapter board to the control board. I do not know what these levels should be. The info indicates that the adapter strobes the keypad so there may not be a constant voltage on them.
Also I would clean the connections between the keypad to adapter to control board. Use isopropyl alcohol or electronics contact cleaner and a brush. Be gentle. Be sure to unplug the unit. Do not reconnect them till the solvent evaporates. I would also check the ribbon cables with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks across the conductors/tracks
If the above does nothing.
I would go with the control board since the DLB relay is activating so the unit is asking for heat but is not sending out which element should be activated.