We have an [B]Amana ACS3350AS. When the oven has been on for a while, the oven will shut off and the control panel will go blank. After it cools off, it will turn back on.
If I tap on the top of the stove over the control panel, it will also turn back on.
Suggestions?
Thank you
[/B]
Does anyone have any ideas? Thank you.
[quote=utahjeff;291517]We have an Amana ACS3350AS. When the oven has been on for a while, the oven will shut off and the control panel will go blank. After it cools off, it will turn back on.
If I tap on the top of the stove over the control panel, it will also turn back on.
Suggestions?
Thank you
[/quote]
Jeff,
You most likely have a bad or weak oven limit switch or cooling fan.
(click on part numbers for information)
AP4041090
If you put the unit into broil or clean cycle, the fan should come on relatively quick(that would tell you if the fan is ok).
The two limit switches are located, underneath the cook top portion and on the left side of the burner box base.
If the cooling fan doesn’t run or the oven overheats, it allows the limits to open and shut down power to the control, and it goes blank until the limits reset.
Good Luck,
Joe,
I just ordered these two parts based on your suggestions and I want to know if you have instructions on how to install these parts. My husband and I are both pretty handy and can probably figure it out. Plus, we’ve already had 2 repair people out to the house who basically did nothing, didn’t listen to us about the actual problem, charged us $200 and told us we “might” need a new control panel which has been discontinued. This stove is only 6 years old and the burners still work fine. The oven and control panel shut off when it gets up to temp and then won’t turn back on until it cools off. Thus, we want to try replacing the parts that you suggested prior to forking out $2500 for a new slide in range. Thanks!
Dionne
[quote=dionnegallagher;300977]Joe,
I just ordered these two parts based on your suggestions and I want to know if you have instructions on how to install these parts. My husband and I are both pretty handy and can probably figure it out. Plus, we’ve already had 2 repair people out to the house who basically did nothing, didn’t listen to us about the actual problem, charged us $200 and told us we “might” need a new control panel which has been discontinued. This stove is only 6 years old and the burners still work fine. The oven and control panel shut off when it gets up to temp and then won’t turn back on until it cools off. Thus, we want to try replacing the parts that you suggested prior to forking out $2500 for a new slide in range. Thanks!
Dionne[/quote]
Dionne,
You didn’t mention a model number, so I assume your unit is the same as Jeff’s.
First thing you’re going to do is remove power to the unit.
As I mentioned in the previous post, both limiters are located on the left side of the burner box, under the cook top.
I reccomend you replace both parts, as long as you’re there, and you can test the fan with a 120 volt test cord.
I’ve attached excerpts from a service manual, that will make it a little easier for you to procede.
Good Luck,
[LEFT][FONT=Arial]Maintop Removal–Slide-In[/FONT][/LEFT]
[LEFT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]1. Turn off electrical power and gas to the range.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]2. Disconnect gas and power from unit.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]3. Remove screws securing top surface burners.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]4. Remove surface burner and disconnect spark ignitor[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]wire from surface burner.[/FONT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]5. Raise and remove maintop from unit[/FONT][/SIZE]
[LEFT][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial]ERC Cooling Fan–Slide-In[/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][FONT=Arial][/LEFT]
[LEFT][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]1. See “Maintop Removal–Slide-In” for removal.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]2. Disconnect wire terminals from fan motor.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]3. Remove screws securing cooling fan bracket.[/FONT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]4. Replace and reassemble in reverse order.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[LEFT][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial]Oven High Limit/Thermal Fan Switch–[/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][FONT=Arial]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]Slide-In[/FONT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[LEFT][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]1. See “Maintop Removal–Slide-In” for removal.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]2. Disconnect wire terminals from limiter.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]3. Remove screws securing limiter.[/FONT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=2][FONT=Arial]4. Replace and reassemble in reverse order[/FONT][/SIZE]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
Thanks Joe! We’ll try it. Yes it is the same serial and model as Jeff’s.
Dionne
[quote=dionnegallagher;302874]Thanks Joe! We’ll try it. Yes it is the same serial and model as Jeff’s.
Dionne[/quote]
Dionne,
Good enough,
The part numbers you’ll need will be the same as the ones in my post to Jeff.
Looking forward to your update,
Hi Jeff,
We have the parts and I installed both the fan and the limiters. Now when I plug in the power cord the fan comes on. The fan seems to be running non-stop. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Sean
[quote=SeanG;303481]Hi Jeff,
We have the parts and I installed both the fan and the limiters. Now when I plug in the power cord the fan comes on. The fan seems to be running non-stop. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Sean[/quote]
Sean,
Joe here,
Sounds like you have the wires to the fan on the control limiter instead of the fan limiter.
Switch the wires on the limiters and see what happens.
Hi. We have the same problem with our Amana appliance, same model.
Did replacing the limit control parts work?
The fan is no longer available.
Our oven door has never closed properly and the front controls get very hot. I fear that after 10 years we have finally cooked it.
Thanks for the help.
[quote=jh_on_the_cape;783392]Hi. We have the same problem with our Amana appliance, same model.
Did replacing the limit control parts work?
The fan is no longer available.
Our oven door has never closed properly and the front controls get very hot. I fear that after 10 years we have finally cooked it.
Thanks for the help.[/quote]
JH, We don’t really think you’ve “cooked it”. Just like all the previous posts stated, check and replace the “fan” limit switch and the “oven” limit switch. They have been allowwed to overheat, and are most likely “weak”. The easiest way to diagnose a faulty cooling fan motor, is to apply 120 VAC across the terminals, if the motor runs, your fan is OK. A quick explanation: If the cooling fan or cooling fan limit switch have failed, the heat from the oven is allowed to accumulate under the cook top,and in the control panel area, this causes the oven limit switch to “open”, and the switch eliminates power to the control and the range is not usable, until the limit switch resets to the “closed” position and power is available to the control.
Now the control panel heat and the door not closing proper, will require the installation of a “new” revised oven door latch assembly
The door plunger and switch has been designed with less closing force, and will allow a more “positive” door closure and seal. This will help to reduce the heat across the control panel as well as some of the heat that builds up in the control panel area under the cooktop.
THanks. I will check/replace the two limit switches. Can you give some directions on how to replace that door latch assembly?
I will check the fan, but if it is dead, I cannot find a replacement anyway!
The door hinges are a bit more money. Do you think they are worth replacing?
EDIT: I think I found the culprit: the door sheet metal is bent where the hinges push it up. So the door does not close properly. THis could have happened if someone pushed down on the open door. I might try to bend them back… but I need to repair the damage done on the control panel…
[quote=jh_on_the_cape;783402]THanks. I will check/replace the two limit switches. Can you give some directions on how to replace that door latch assembly?
I will check the fan, but if it is dead, I cannot find a replacement anyway!
The door hinges are a bit more money. Do you think they are worth replacing?[/quote]
JH, Since you’ll have the cooktop up, to access the limit switches, you’ll be able to replace the latch assembly, pretty easily (a couple of more steps),
Thanks,
I tried replacing the two limit switches and the cooling fan/blower but that didn’t help. I had the door “fixed” TWICE while it was still under warranty but it never did shut properly and the control panel burned out. This range has been a huge disappointment and an even bigger expense. I finally threw in the towel and bought a new range. I’m going to try to sell off the Amana/Whirlpool parts.
[quote=jh_on_the_cape;783392]Hi. We have the same problem with our Amana appliance, same model.
Did replacing the limit control parts work?
The fan is no longer available.
Our oven door has never closed properly and the front controls get very hot. I fear that after 10 years we have finally cooked it.
Thanks for the help.[/quote]
JH, Everything you’ll need is mentioned in the previous posts, For the “shut down” issue. Chances are you won’t need the fan, but you’ll need to take care of the limits switches. As for the “hot” control panel issue, there are several things you need to check and replace. Fisrt make sure the door seal is not damaged, torn, or badly worn in the lower corners, where the gasket meets the oven cavity. Make sure your gasket isn’t dirty or has hard spots in it(you may just want or have to clean the seal with a mild detergent and scrub brush). If the gasket is OK, you’ll want to replace the self clean door latch assembly
and door hinges
Which will produce the proper spring rate and plunger operation, so the door will close and seal properly at the top, and reduce the heat on the control panel assembly. Thanks
Hello
I am having this same issue with my range. I have tested the fan (it is working fine) and have replaced both switches per these instructions. However, the control panel still shuts off, and comes back on blinking with the time lost (just like if the power cord was pulled)
One strange thing - the two limit controller were in the opposite position as on the parts diagram. The parts i took out were identical and had the same parts number as the ones i put in.
I also could not hear the fan running when the oven was hot, but when i tested the fan, it was very quite. Its it possible it was running and i just couldn’t hear it though the range cabinet
thanks
[quote=rgenzink;824489]Hello
I am having this same issue with my range. I have tested the fan (it is working fine) and have replaced both switches per these instructions. However, the control panel still shuts off, and comes back on blinking with the time lost (just like if the power cord was pulled)
One strange thing - the two limit controller were in the opposite position as on the parts diagram. The parts i took out were identical and had the same parts number as the ones i put in.
I also could not hear the fan running when the oven was hot, but when i tested the fan, it was very quite. Its it possible it was running and i just couldn’t hear it though the range cabinet
thanks[/quote]
rgenzink, If you’re working on a ACS3350AS, like the previous post, you need to realize the cooling fan will not activate until the area under the cooktop reaches a temperature of 155 dgrs., then the limit switch will “close” and supply power to the cooling fan. So lower temperatures and shorter cooking periods, you may not hear the cooling fan run. On the other hand, longer cooking periods and higher temperatures will cause the cooling fan to activate, and usually remain on until the area reaches 115 dgrs. then the switch opens and power to the fan is eliminated.
Under the circumstances, you’ll need to check and verify there are no loose connections at the Clock/ERC , J4 connector the black and white wire(s) and the J5 connector black/white wire. If all’s OK, then the issue could be a weak circuit in the ERC/Clock circuit
, and it will need to be repaired or replaced.
I also have the same problem. I have verified that the fan motor works, and I have replaced both of the limits and I am still having problems. The control panel still gets very hot.
Someone in these forums suggested that if I turn on broil, the fan limit should kick in fairly soon. Can anyone confirm that? When I turned on broil (with the cooktop removed), the fan did not kick on after I let it run for 10 to 15 minutes. I can get the fan to run by shorting the fan limit switch.
Is there any way to definitively test the limit switches?
Also, the comment made by @rgenzink about the limit switches appearing to be in the wrong position sounded familiar. Is there an explanation for that?
Thanks for any help you can offer. My next steps are to check the control panel connections. I am also tempted to rig up a better closure mechanism because I know the the door is not closing fully.
-Mat
[QUOTE=mek363;842796]I also have the same problem. I have verified that the fan motor works, and I have replaced both of the limits and I am still having problems. The control panel still gets very hot.
Someone in these forums suggested that if I turn on broil, the fan limit should kick in fairly soon. Can anyone confirm that? When I turned on broil (with the cooktop removed), the fan did not kick on after I let it run for 10 to 15 minutes. I can get the fan to run by shorting the fan limit switch.
Is there any way to definitively test the limit switches?
Also, the comment made by @rgenzink about the limit switches appearing to be in the wrong position sounded familiar. Is there an explanation for that?
Thanks for any help you can offer. My next steps are to check the control panel connections. I am also tempted to rig up a better closure mechanism because I know the the door is not closing fully.
-Mat[/QUOTE]
Mat, As noted in the previous post the control panel heat is due to the door not closing/sealing properly the recommended repair is to replace the door latch assembly and the door hinges to achieve a proper seal and reduce the air over the control panel.
When the oven limit switch opens at approx. 240 dgrs. power to the control is eliminated and the display and ERC go blank, and the limit has to cool back down to 210 dgrs. before power will be restored.
When the fan limit reaches a temperature of 155 dgrs, the switch closes and supplies power to the fan in order to reduce the heat under the cook top. The fan switch is an “open” circuit below 155 dgrs.
You can use a meter and boiling water and thermostat to test the limit switches.
There is also a tech data sheet and wiring diagram attached to this post, you’ll have a better idea of the operation of the range and the limits and circuitry you’ll be concerned with.
Binder1.pdf (182.9 KB)
Does anyone know where to get these parts? I have the same issue and it is now 2016. looks like the parts are no longer made. I’m looking for all 3