Brand:
Model Number:
106.56569400
What happens & when: Freezer/frig not cooling, 2.5 psi freon running pressure, ice buildup on supply line, freezer somewhat cool 35 deg.F after 4 days running, frig 63 deg. F. I suspect filter drier clogged up W10843121 is guess filter, All motors are running, fans run, coils clean, no ice in freezer but on compressor line 1/4 inch buildup.
Error Code (if any): none
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Hey Fred, was the sealed system opened up recently? Is the drier cold to the touch? When you say the supply line, are you talking about the suction line going into the compressor?
The line that I have my clamp on freon fitting to charge the system is creating ice on the line and the fitting. The system may have been depleted as it was not cooling and I charged the system but I did not open the system up. ( not running charged to 30 psi and when I plugged in refrigerator/freezer unit, the pressure settled down to 2 to 2.5 psi. I was going to evacuate the system and then, try recharging the system BEFORE I order and put in the filter drier. The freezer is holding steady at 36-38 degrees so it is cooling somewhat and the refrigerator portion is still near 65 degrees pretty much all the time for the last 7 days. I am suspecting water vapor lock in the system. What do you think? Fred
Drier is not cold and like warm but the line I was talking about with the fitting to charge the system has ice buildup 1/4 inch now.
I would pump down the system, replace the filter drier. Once pumped down in a vacuum, watch the gauges to see if it holds a negative vacuum. This would tell you of a leak. Then re-charge the system.
So do you think the drier is clogged up as system held a pressure correctly for 4 days, evacuate the system and recharge or Replace drier filter, evacuate system and recharge it?
Anytime the system is opened up, I always changed the filter and pulled a vacuum, checked it for leaks and then re-charged.
Thank you David, I will do that and let you know outcome.
Fred
Well found a leak on the side of the filter drier that IS NOT THE LITTLE CAPILLARY TUBE but the larger tubing, filter connections are sealed on both ends and no leaks. This large tubing goes directly upward through the frame and I can hear the freon gas escaping through the frame which has styrofoam in it. I do not know where this tubing goes so I can bypass the old tubing and connect a new tube to wherever the original tubing went, which I do not know where it goes to. Attached picture shows which tube I am talking about (the end of the Drier tube that has 2 lines, 1 sweated on and the other has a threaded service fitting).
The reason I believe it leaks now is I bent the hose that is attached to the 2 line side to fit into the refrigerator housing and I heard freon leaking since I pressurized unit and had no leaks and then bent tube to fit housing.
Need to know where this tubing goes and do bypass or cut the back of the refrigerator and solder the break/leak wherever it may be. Thank you for your input.
Here is picture of what I was thinking of doing.
That is the Yoder loop that goes around the face of the refrigerator to keep the area where the gasket comes in contact from sweating. You may notice that it is sometimes warm to the touch. You can bypass the loop; it will just sweat, especially if you are in a high-humidity area. You will need to decrease the freon charge also.
So my proposed bypass is ok to do even if it sweats a little? Thank you for your input
as I bent the tube and now am sorry. Can you confirm by saying YES or NO with no liability attached to question?
yes, the bypass will work
Have no leaks, evacuated the unit for 15 min. and it held a vacuum around -30 for 15 min. then charged the unit without running unit to 30 PSI and it held charge for a while and then dropped to 20 PSI then plugged in refrigerator and now the compressor is clicking like it wants to start but it does not draw freon pressure down to 2 to 3 PSI. Relay clicks I believe. I will be checking relay for continuity and capacitor to see it they are ok also check running amps. If there is no running amps, then either the relay is bad or the windings on compressor motor is shot. I will let you know outcome as Unit IS NOT COOLING yet. Are my observations correct? Thank you David.
Checked starter relay no continuity, bad relay, capacitor barely operable microfarad wise outside of 10 % band , basically shot. waiting to get relay and install, then return an answer that unit is running. Thank you David
