Your model number does not come up.
Most Kenmore numbers are XXX.XXXXXXX with all X's being numbers.

Should not be hard to replace once you locate the correct part.

correct model number 253 5718 2600

I was able to get the motor off, which was pretty simple only two screws and a plug. Now the hard part. Getting the blade off the motor.



Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/f1photo053110004j


Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/3mphoto053110001j




There seems to be some kind of tongue and groove hook behind the fan blade, do I need some kind of special tool to release the propellor or can I do it with a screwdriver or pliers? I don't want to damage it so I'd like to know the correct way before I try.

one other question - I placed a plug in fan behind my fridge for the time being to keep my condenser cool, that should be an adequate substitute correct?

[COLOR="Blue"]I got the fan blade off the condensor motor but it wasn't easy, basically had to cut it off, hoping the replacement will just snap right on because there doesn't seem to be much of a way to connect it.[/COLOR]
Yes, it looks like the fan blade just pushes onto the fan motor's shaft.

[COLOR="Blue"] Noticed that the refrigerator partition started getting warmer without the condensor fan motor connected, so I put it back in without the blade and that seems to have helped I wonder if the blower that blows air from the freezer to the fridge is somehow connected to the compressor motor. The fridge is very slow to get back to 40 degrees even at the coldest setting, is this a new problem or is it because I have a fan that is constantly cooling the coils instead of intermittantly.[/COLOR]
Your problem is probably that your temporary external fan is not doing as good a job as the actual condenser fan. It should run OK once you get the new fan blade installed. Often it will take 12 to 24 hours for a fridge's temperatures to stabilize. Having the fan motor installed without a blade will do nothing.
The fans are sort of interconnected with the compressor in that they are all on when the compressor is on and during a defrost cycle they are all normally off.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Worried that some how the vent from freezer to fridge is blocked but it seem to be blowing air, although weakly and at only 42 degrees.[/COLOR]
I would not worry about it till you get the new fan blade installed and give it some time.
Also be sure to clean the condenser coils under the fridge and check that the front kick plate is clean.

Are you sure it is a crack and not actually made like this?

Often a noise while closing the door is caused by a broken cam (plastic piece) on the lower hinge, either the one on the door or the one on the hinge pin.

Looks like part number 22 is the door's lower cam and 22B is the upper bearing.
Note: That there is also a cam on the lower hinge they work together to hold the door on a downward slope and keep the door closed.

Here is is the lower door cam
Part number: AP2115808