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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEB6200KQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406692.pdf [COLOR="Blue"]
My son's whirlpool dryer quit working. I tested the breaker, plug, door switch, start button and all are working properly.[/COLOR]
How did you check the voltage?
It should be
L1 to L2 240 volts.
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral should both be 120 volts.
Note that the motor only uses 120 volts, the heater requires the full 240 volts.
I am assuming you checked the door switch and the push to start using ohms with the unit unplugged. Also did you remove the wire from at least one side of the device you were measuring. Thjis ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.
[COLOR="Blue"]At this time I tested for current running thru the 2 larger red wires running to the wire harness at the bottom of the motor and there is current present, which leads me to believe that the motor is bad.[/COLOR]
The large red wires are usually the heating coil and it should not have current flow unless the motor is running due to the centrifugal switch on the motor.
Could it be that you are confusing current with voltage?
It is normal to have voltage here.
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However, I did not check the overload device, if the overload device has tripped, what does it shut off?[/COLOR]
This would be at the top of my list (Item 7 in Section 3).
It kills power to the motor.
Note the unit has 2 thermal fuses but the other one is near the heater assembly and just cuts power to the heater.
Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms.
Jiggery Pokery method is.
Unplug the unit.
Remove both wires from the fuse, short them together and tape them up so they will not short to the frame.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.
If blown, replace the fuse ASAP as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.
Also clean/check your vent system and the blower as these are the most common causes of it blowing.
[COLOR="Blue"]The motor, the heating element, the timer, or does it shut down everything?[/COLOR]
With the fuse blown the timer will run in timed dry, the motor will not start and this will also kill the heater. The motor has a centrifugal switch on it. This switch closes when the motor gets close to operating speed closing the circuit to the heating element, it ensures that the coil does not heat up until you have air flow.
If the motor did fail, and the heating element remains on, wouldn't the overload device shut down the element? I understand that the overload devices cannot be reset, only replaced, is that right?
[COLOR="Blue"]So I estimate that either the motor or the overload device, or both are defective.[/COLOR]
Probably just the thermal fuse.
[COLOR="Blue"]If I eliminate the overload device, then it must be the motor.
Right?[/COLOR]
I would do more trouble shooting first.
