Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Hello - my wife and I just moved into a newer home about a week ago. Today we decided to bake some muffins in the RBS305PRS00 (note change from post info above) Electric Wall Oven, a bit older than 1 year. The oven was set for 350F and the front panel said that it was preheating - countdown timer showed 13 minutes, the fan came on. After 13 minutes the oven was stone cold, no errors - the front panel read "350F." Similarly there were no results on attempts to broil and self clean. I flipped the breaker back and forth and had the same result - but power is definitely getting to the oven since the front panel is on. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. B
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Check the bake and the broil heat elements and the oven shutdown thermal fuse as described in the tech sheets (page 6). Remove the red wire from the DBL and check for 120VAC between this wire and ground. Post the results. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Gene - thanks for the suggestion. The elements check out OK.
To check the thermal shutdown fuse I accessed the control panel and found the P1-1 cable (orange). In the same bank (P1) of connections I found a red connection. Across these I get a closed circuit at room temp. I did not remove this connector from the control board - it was quite tight. Will this affect my result (which is that the fuse is intact)?
There are a bunch of red/white wires and connections, of course - what is the DBL?
Thanks
B
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
B,
All plugs on the control board should be marked (you might need a magnifier). All wires must be removed for continuity test. A flat screwdriver can help to remove a tight plug. DBL is abbreviation for Double Line Break Relay.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Gene - thanks for your patience. I have verified that the thermal fuse has continuity. Last on your list is to check for 120V across the red DBL wire and ground. I have poured over the control board and I am unable to locate the DBL. I do see it on the diagram, but am unable to ID the correct red line. There are only 3 red wires coming into the board - one on the thermal fuse plug and 2 others. Any suggestions? I knew I should've taken more EE courses in college.
Thanks
Ben
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Ben,
It suppose to be the red wire coming from the terminal block to the control board (incoming power).
The second test you have to do after that is: with this red wire connected to the control board and the red/white wire disconnected, check for 120VAC between the terminal on the control board where the red/white wire was connected and ground.
Post the results.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Gene - I think I may have found the problem. When initially testing the fuse I was checking for continuity between the orange wire on the fuse plug, and the red wire on the fuse plug - is this the correct test? Tech sheet states the test should be between the red/white on DBL to Orange. There is no red/white wire anywhere. When I checked for continuity between the Orange wire and the red or white wire on the terminal block - I get an open circuit each time.
If I'm reading this correctly then my fuse is blown, so I'll need to pull the oven and replace it.
Ben
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Ben,
Red/white wire means a red wire with white strip on it. If there is no such wire then you have to remove the oven from the cabinet to test the thermal fuse. I can not see another way how to do it.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
I agree - this morning I pulled the oven and found the thermal fuse. The fuse showed an open circuit at room temperature, so it is bad. I have ordered the part from appliancepartspro - to arrive in the near future. Looks like there was a service flash on these whirlpool models, it seems that the location of the fuse - in line with the exhaust fan has caused it to prematurely blow on many ovens (especially when performing a self-clean). Some have recommended moving the fuse location over 6 inches to avoid this problem - to more accurately test the ambient air. However, I dont have any 150C rated wire to use to allow enough length for this change. For now I will just replace the fuse and run the autoclean only extremely rarely.
Thanks for your help Gene.
Ben
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Ben, You can use this 125°C - 600Volt wire kit: AP3440743 and high temperature porcelain wire nuts: AP3440631. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
