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Mudbone  
#1 Posted : Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:39:54 AM(UTC)
Mudbone

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I have a three year old Samsung RB215LASH. Single door frig over a single door freezer, dual evap coils, temp control on door.

I got up this morning, frig set to 40, showing 54. Freezer set to -4, showing -4. Checked frig temp with an accurate thermometer, it shows 54

Came here, read up. Seems likely cause is frozen evap coil. Checked frig, temp is now 57

I had heard that one of the reasons for a frozen evap coil is dirty condenser coil. Removed back panel, coil was dirty but not overly so. Cleaned coil, replaced back panel.

Unplugged unit, emptied frig section, removed shelves. Removed inside back panel, unplugging what I assume is the circulation fan and the frig temp sensor from the roof plug. Yep, coil assembly is a solid block of ice. Drain holes are plugged as well. Removed black cover over plugs on back wall, ice in there as well. Melted ice with hair drier, made sure not to damage coil. Identified the evap coil, (Wow, I did not realize the incoming refrigerant line would be so small.), the heating coil, and what looks like some type of temp sensor zipped tied to the coil assembly. Also noted a pair of wires running down the back and going out a hole to parts unknown.

Studied diagram here : http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172096&diagram_id=1355754

Concerned that I did not see both parts identified as 6 and 7. Decide to get some advice.

Replaced black cover and inside back panel, Plugged up unit. Frig temp is set to 40 now shows 17 ?!?!

1. Why does the frig temp now show 17? It has now risen slightly. There is no way its 17. Did I screw something else up?
2. The diagram I referred to is labeled as a Maytag. Is this the right diagram?
3. How do I diagnose which part is broken? Does this unit have a defrost timer that could be bad? I assume the heating coil and temp sensor on the coil are suspects. I have a volt/ohm/cont meter but I am not sure what readings I should look for.
4. If the heating coil is bad can it be replaced by itself or do I have to replace the entire coil assembly, Item one on that diagram, part number AP4171995 . I see that the heater coil is attached to the evap coil with all the fins, doesn’t really look like it comes apart.
5. I assume the temp sensor I saw is item 7 on the diagram. Should I be concerned that item 6 is no longer avaliable?

TIA for the help
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Mudbone  
#2 Posted : Saturday, May 22, 2010 7:51:15 PM(UTC)
Mudbone

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Some additional info. I believe I have narrowed it down to item 6 or 7 on page 7 of the parts diagram.

Refrigerator compartment replacement parts for MAYTAG RB215LASH Ref - Bottom Mounts | AppliancePartsPros.com

I have continuity for the heating coil and for part # 7, THERM pn# AP4136048 I don't know how to properly test part #6 the defrost sensor, pn# AP3772785
Gene  
#3 Posted : Thursday, June 10, 2010 12:54:01 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: Mudbone Go to Quoted Post
Some additional info. I believe I have narrowed it down to item 6 or 7 on page 7 of the parts diagram.

Refrigerator compartment replacement parts for MAYTAG RB215LASH Ref - Bottom Mounts | AppliancePartsPros.com

I have continuity for the heating coil and for part # 7, THERM pn# AP4136048 I don't know how to properly test part #6 the defrost sensor, pn# AP3772785


Perform the troubleshooting as described in the Service manual.

This refrigerator made by Samsung for Maytag and all parts have been distributed through Maytag.

Gene.
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