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maytag performa wont turn on at all?
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Model: PYE2200AYW Brand: Maytag Age: 5 - 10 years
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weist1013  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 5:42:28 AM(UTC)
weist1013

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i have a maytag performa model pye2200ayw, i went to get a load out of the dryer and the clothes were still wet! i have replaced the timer, bypassed the door switch, by passed the thermal fuse and the dryer still wont work???? it shows no sign of life. i have power going to the timer any suggestions :confused:
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magician59  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 6:28:36 AM(UTC)
magician59

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Does it tumble?
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weist1013  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 6:46:56 AM(UTC)
weist1013

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Originally Posted by: magician59 Go to Quoted Post
Does it tumble?

it is like it is not plugged in at all, no tumble, no attempt at all to move or start, it is like the door switch is open, i by passed the door switch and still did not have any sign of life. i am taking my fluke home tonight where should i look?:confused:
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denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 7:51:39 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE2200AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

First make sure you have the correct power, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually blowing the breaker.
Note: That if the timer advances in timed dry mode you know that the L1 side of the line is OK and this also rune the motor.
OR
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord. Be careful 240 volts is lethal.

Next would be the start switch.

Then the thermal fuse is Item 5 in Section 4.
Unplug the unit and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it, this prevents reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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weist1013  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 7:56:58 AM(UTC)
weist1013

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Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE2200AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

First make sure you have the correct power, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually blowing the breaker.
Note: That if the timer advances in timed dry mode you know that the L1 side of the line is OK and this also rune the motor.
OR
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord. Be careful 240 volts is lethal.

Next would be the start switch.

Then the thermal fuse is Item 5 in Section 4.
Unplug the unit and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it, this prevents reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).

thanks i will get in to it tonight, i am running out of clothes!!!!
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