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Joined: 6/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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Burner will not light. The ignitor glows brightly, apparently the gas "safety valve" does not open. I have ohm'd the safety valve, the coil has continuity, terminal to terminal; and does not show to be shorted. I understand the voltage from the ignitor is reduced - what voltage signal should I get to open the safety valve? Is there some way to bench test the safety valve and the ignitor so I know which to replace?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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Update for those interested. I found out the ignitor and safety valve work as needed. On this model the signal thru the ignitor to the safety valve is approx. 3.2 volts ac, the repair places won't help you with that much at all. Long story short, I did get a flame after turning the manual gas valve off, waiting about a minute and SLOWLY turning the gas back on. the pressure regulator works if the demand is slowly applied. So - does anybody have input on exactly how the regulator works. I understand the basics, but does it maybe have a high-flow stop or something that causes gas to not flow at all if the demand is sudden? such as a startup. I just want to be assured that if I replace it the oven will work.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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The glow bar, must draw about 3.2 amps in order for the saftey valve to open and alow gas to flow to the burner. East way to test, is put an amp probe on one of the glowbar wires and see what the current draw is
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Rank: Member
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Ok, we have 3.2 amp draw at the glow bar - the gas valve opens. I still get intermittent lighting, if I turn the manual gas valve off, and slowly turn it on - I get a light each time. Suggestions on how to get a for sure light off??
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Marrel,
It should be a little bit over 3.2 amp to provide stable gas flow. If it's just 3.2 amps, that could be a problem.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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:o :o :o OOps - let me back up, electricity 101. My volts to the safety valve are 3.2. The AMP draw on the wire to the ignitor, using a clamp on amprobe is 2.8. I can still get a light off if I turn the gas off and back on manually - however, after comparing the flame to another gas oven, this one is pretty puny. The comparison oven has a much 'longer' flame. So with that info., what do I change out? Thanks for you persistance.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Originally Posted by: Marrel ...OOps - let me back up, electricity 101. ...what do I change out? Low voltage. This is a major problem. Try to plug it in a different outlet with proper power. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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I understood I was to have 3.2 or better AMP draw from the ignitor, I have 2.8 AMPS. The voltage I measured is after the ignitor at the safety valve.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Sounds like the igniter is bad.
Gene.
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