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mzakal  
#1 Posted : Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:14:43 AM(UTC)
mzakal

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Joined: 4/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

I'm dealing with a Frigidaire FDE436RES1 dryer that tumbles and runs through the timed cycles without a problem, but will not heat on any setting. My wife reports that the top lid had been getting pretty hot during use lately, and it stopped heating altogether last week.

Here are the steps I have taken so far:

1. Tested wall outlet with multimeter on AC: 240V between the hots and 120V between each hot and the neutral.
2. Inspected terminal block where power cord enters dryer. All connections clean and secure.
2. Disassembled lint trap and removed a pretty big mass of lint that may have been blocking air flow. Cleaned lint trap, tube and outdoor vent. Ran dryer without vent tube. Still no heat.
3. Disconnected and tested following internal parts for continuity with multimeter set on Ohms XK1 setting:

a) Thermostat: needle moved to reading of zero

b) Thermal Limiter: also zero

c) Heating coil: zero. No breaks or weaknesses detected in the coil, though the metal pan and back panel near the top part of the coil appear scorched.


Please let me know what else I should be taking a look at in this dryer. It's from the mid 1990s, so I'm trying to go the DIY route for fear that calling a pro may cost more than the appliance is worth. Thanks in advance for your input.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, April 12, 2010 5:04:09 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDE436RES1 Frg(v1) / Electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a wiring diagram. I could not find one for an RES1 so the following is for a RES2. I checked it against the one included with the parts and they look the same, just a better copy.

[COLOR="Blue"]1. Tested wall outlet with multimeter on AC: 240V between the hots and 120V between each hot and the neutral.
2. Inspected terminal block where power cord enters dryer. All connections clean and secure.[/COLOR]
You may want to check for the 240 at the terminal strip. You may have a bad power cord. Just be very, very careful as 240 is lethal!!!

[COLOR="Blue"]2. Disassembled lint trap and removed a pretty big mass of lint that may have been blocking air flow. Cleaned lint trap, tube and outdoor vent. Ran dryer without vent tube. Still no heat.
3. Disconnected and tested following internal parts for continuity with multimeter set on Ohms XK1 setting:

a) Thermostat: needle moved to reading of zero

b) Thermal Limiter: also zero[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Blue"] c) Heating coil: zero. No breaks or weaknesses detected in the coil, though the metal pan and back panel near the top part of the coil appear scorched.[/COLOR]
Use a more sensitive meter scale, if your meter has one.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open), use a higher meter scale. If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it. Can also do other weird things depending on how it sagged/shorted.

Note: You also have a hi-limit thermostat.
Item 36 in Section 1 Thermal Limiter - would shut the motor off
Item 33 in Section 1 High Limit Thermostat
Item 15 in Section 4 Control Thermostat

If the heater and all thermostats OK, unplug the unit, set it to mid cycle timed dry, high heat and check the A to L1 timer contacts, should be 0 ohms.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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