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fklentz  
#11 Posted : Saturday, September 15, 2007 7:10:30 AM(UTC)
fklentz

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Joined: 8/27/2007(UTC)
Posts: 5

Changed the thermostat/flame sensor, works perfect now.
Cheetham  
#12 Posted : Saturday, September 15, 2007 7:50:13 AM(UTC)
Cheetham

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Joined: 9/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 4

The GE tech came and replaced the flame thermostat (fuse) and it works perfectly. The problem comes from using the timer, but not pushing the timer button. It works like its cooking and with nothing in the oven, it gets too hot for the thermostat wich opens up. Make sure its actully in "timer" mode or keep something in the oven (like a bowl of water) to absorb the heat.
There was no charge for the service because the oven is under one year old.
acser  
#13 Posted : Saturday, January 12, 2008 3:45:33 PM(UTC)
acser

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Joined: 1/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2

The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.

Model's part list:
http://www.**********.com/Model...=GE&Type=&Mark=0

Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse. $3 at Radio Shack for 4 pieces.


There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:

1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.

2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.


"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319 under:
http://www.**********.com/xq/as...tDetail.htm?SourceCode=1


3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.

1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.

4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.

4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.
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