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jniggli  
#61 Posted : Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:49 PM(UTC)
jniggli

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I put a new transistor in mine. It is relatively easy and the part is very cheap.
Find that old thread and there is pretty much detail there on what to order and how to accomplish the repair.
APPNewbie  
#62 Posted : Friday, September 24, 2010 3:49:54 AM(UTC)
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Ok, thanks a lot. :D
rolandvz71  
#63 Posted : Saturday, October 30, 2010 7:22:37 PM(UTC)
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What size watt soldering iron did you fells use?? Also did you use heat sinks when soldering the piece?
jniggli  
#64 Posted : Monday, November 8, 2010 11:17:05 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: rolandvz71 Go to Quoted Post
What size watt soldering iron did you fells use?? Also did you use heat sinks when soldering the piece?



I used a 40 Watt Weller... no heat sinks necessary
kenjiwah  
#65 Posted : Monday, November 15, 2010 5:30:31 PM(UTC)
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I am having a similar problem with my dryer. I replaced the transistor but it still seems to not be working right... however, it is working better.
I'm going to try and replace the transistor again and am wondering what is normal for the blower?

When the blower motor is functioning properly does it continually run while the dryer is on?
heeb8  
#66 Posted : Tuesday, November 30, 2010 12:15:16 PM(UTC)
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I'm also having trouble with my dryer's (model # DPGT750GC2PL)blower motor. Its the same motor even though its a gas dryer. I ordered the transistor (K322A1266Y) and I've pulled the motor out. Now, I took the four screws out the hold the casing of the motor together, and I pulled the cover of the casing off, but I'm not sure how to get the circuit board off so it can be worked on. Help! First time for everything...
bad luk  
#67 Posted : Thursday, December 9, 2010 1:58:05 PM(UTC)
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heeb8:

You have to take the aluminum housings off of both sides of the motor. This should expose the circuit board allowing you access to the transistor solder pads.
The housing that covered the circuit board end (solder end) stuck on for me and I had to gently pry between the housing and the windings through the cutout where the wiring harness comes through. Just remove the rubber grommet and you will see where to pry. Shouldn't take much since the housings are slip fit.

Question for those who bought new transistors - what markings are you seeing on the actual part you received?
I ordered the KSA733CYTA from Mouser and the part I received has 'A733' on the first line and 'YCJ39' on the second line. I looked on the Fairchild Semiconductor site and it seems to be a valid part, although the date code indicates a lead free component. I know it has been mentioned earlier in this thread that this was a problem. Also, I have the LG motor with the K322A1266Y transistor. Is this going to be an issue using the KSA733CYTA as a replacement?

update: I just tried the 'A733 YCJ39' transistor and the motor did not work. While the dryer was going through the factory test, it looked like the motor would turn half way around then coast to a stop. A few seconds later it would turn the other way and coast to a stop. Never made a full revolution (let alone the required rpm).
I did notice that the transistor case was hot to the touch after soldering. Could I have damaged the device with too much heat?


I did test the inverter board and everything came out OK.

Thanks!
Tinkooram  
#68 Posted : Friday, December 10, 2010 7:30:14 PM(UTC)
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Hi Anyone please help....

I need help in removing the blower wheel on my GE Harmony Gas Dryer. I followed all the steps in the technical manual and in this thread and I am stuck where I have to remove the blower wheel. From here I have to get to the blower motor.

Please I need help..... I am referring manual http://www.applianceblog.com/manuals...mony_Dryer.pdf I am stuck at page 28 step 6. I was able to remove the 13mm center nut, then can't remove blower wheel.

Let me know how to remove the blower wheel

Thanks. :o
Tinkooram  
#69 Posted : Friday, December 10, 2010 10:09:13 PM(UTC)
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Never mind guys, it took a few tries to remove the blower wheel. Removed it and replaced the transistor with mouser part number KSA733CYTA. Put the motor back together and put all the part back.

Ran both diagnostics screens. 15 minutes of diagnostics everything seem to be working OK. Motor rpm shows up immediately after 1900-2000rpm Flame sensor kicks on and enough heat is being generated.

Back/My cycles: No problem detected

Will run the laundry loads Saturday morning and see what happens.


Thanks for the research on the transistor part for the blower.:) :) :)
Daniel Gertz  
#70 Posted : Tuesday, January 4, 2011 4:57:06 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jniggli Go to Quoted Post
Hey Benjen,
The only thing I can think of is that we are looking at bad blower motors. Possibly they are getting hot and pulling too much current and shutting down the inverter board power or there is some type of glitchy problem with the feedback coming from the motor. My inverter board seems to be supplying all voltages according to the tests.
My dryer (for now) seems to dry a load before it wants to screw up, making me think it is heat related.
With that said:
I think we both need a Blower Motor
P/N WE17X10008
(The motor in my dryer is actually made by LG and crosses to their P/N 4681EL1001A)

The only other part I see in the possibility list is the Inverter PWB (main board)
P/N WE04X10120
But I don't see anything that leads me to think this part is bad.

Anybody else want to suggest anything????
And if anyone has had this problem before and fixed it, PLEASE chime in and let us know what fixed it for you!





Did u change the motor? And if u did is the problem solved? I got the same exact problem.. It is very challenging
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