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Dryer will not start when I push the button. If I manualy turn the drum and push botton It will run. I have to hold the door safety switch to do this. Basically, not enough torque from motor to start up. It appears the torque to turn the drum has increased ovs long ago. If I cheat it and get it running, it operates fine with out any noise.
Do I need a new motor? If so should I replace the belt?
Do you have intructions on how to disassemble and re assemble and any tips on how to get the belt back on the drum?
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I have the same problem.
I can tell you this. It is NOT the switches in the control panel.
After about 30 years, except for a heat element replacement, this is the first problem that I've had with mine. (A DS510, by the way)
I suspect it is either the start switch and/or motor.
A quick check and if one were to buy both parts on line, it will be about $150 or so.
Can't buy new for that and, my local Maytag guy told me to keep fixing it until I can't get parts anymore. He says you can't buy them like these at any price.
Greydog (for the bump)
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Greydog,
I was able to hold the swith on the door and push the start button and manualy rotate drum and get the dryer working. This occured for about a week, then it completely stopped wotking, no buzz on pushing start any more and motor does not work at all. The motor has a burnt smell, and I removed and ordered another one. Is there a motor switch on the motor, not sure what the part is on the motor that the wiring connector hooks on to. Capacitor or switch?
Should both of the support rollers have the same friction to turn? The right side will not free wheel like the left one when I spin with hand and let go. It will turn, but feels like a couple of in lbs torque to turn. Is this how it should be for the inertia of the drum and cloths to keep friction and loading on belt, or do I have a right roller problem that burned out motor? The drum would turn with some effort, but did not seem excessive. Thoughts on roller and repair?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The switch on the moror has two functions: One set of contacts remains closed, to allow power to the start winding, until the motor is up to speed (less than a second). The other set of contacts remains open until the motor is at full speed, to prevent power from going to the heat circuit, so that there is no heat without air movement.
This switch works by centrifugal force, as the motor "ramps" up to speed. Being a mechanical switch, it is possible that lint build-up can get into it and prevent it from returning to its "at rest" position. The symptoms of this condition are: Motor won't start (and will possibly hum) when the start switch is activated; and, Heat starts without the motor, as soon as the timer is set.
Repeated attempts to start the dryer without the aid of the motor's start winding engaged will burn that winding out.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: T0001ds  Greydog,
Should both of the support rollers have the same friction to turn? The right side will not free wheel like the left one when I spin with hand and let go. It will turn, but feels like a couple of in lbs torque to turn. Is this how it should be for the inertia of the drum and cloths to keep friction and loading on belt, or do I have a right roller problem that burned out motor? The drum would turn with some effort, but did not seem excessive. Thoughts on roller and repair? Idealy, the rollers should both turn with very little friction. A lot of times, if you inspect the rollers and their shafts, and see little wear, you can prolong their life by cleaning the shafts and hubs of the rollers. Test them for better spin. If you decide to replace one, go ahead and replace them both, so you don't have to do the job again.
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Originally Posted by: magician59 The switch on the moror has two functions: One set of contacts remains closed, to allow power to the start winding, until the motor is up to speed (less than a second). The other set of contacts remains open until the motor is at full speed, to prevent power from going to the heat circuit, so that there is no heat without air movement.
This switch works by centrifugal force, as the motor "ramps" up to speed. Being a mechanical switch, it is possible that lint build-up can get into it and prevent it from returning to its "at rest" position. The symptoms of this condition are: Motor won't start (and will possibly hum) when the start switch is activated; and, Heat starts without the motor, as soon as the timer is set.
Repeated attempts to start the dryer without the aid of the motor's start winding engaged will burn that winding out. I guess that means the motor could probable be bad now. Your explanation as to what the problem may entail sounds very good. I am now going to take it apart to where i can get to the motor which looks to be in the bottom back under the drying cyclinder. I now think the problem is in that area. Think you so much for you expertise on this problem. I will let you know how it turns out.
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Probably should have started my own thread but here goes:
I have a Maytag and after chat on another forum, I was (almost) certain the start up of my dryer motor was bad. It would start if I rotated the drum to a new position for the last few months. But, a few weeks ago, the drum would not turn at all in the forward motion. I could spin it backwards, but not forward. So I bought a new motor and was about to replace it today when I noticed there was a lot of lint inside. I vacuumed out the inside, including motor. I noticed the blower fan had a couple of broken fins and would not turn counter-clockwise (forward). I have ordered a new fan as something has obviously been wedged in this and broke it.
However, I plugged the motor in and started the dryer and it worked with no problems. I did this several times with no problems from the motor. So here is my question (finally): could the broken fins on the fan be enough to keep the drum from turning if they were to get wedged outward and catch on something? There is definite wear and tear on the fins, in fact, a couple have been worn down on the outside. I obviously need to replace the fan, but do I need to replace the motor, too? Should I slap it back together and see how it does?
Thanks..
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Originally Posted by: laatz03 Probably should have started my own thread but here goes:
I have a Maytag and after chat on another forum, I was (almost) certain the start up of my dryer motor was bad. It would start if I rotated the drum to a new position for the last few months. But, a few weeks ago, the drum would not turn at all in the forward motion. I could spin it backwards, but not forward. So I bought a new motor and was about to replace it today when I noticed there was a lot of lint inside. I vacuumed out the inside, including motor. I noticed the blower fan had a couple of broken fins and would not turn counter-clockwise (forward). I have ordered a new fan as something has obviously been wedged in this and broke it.
However, I plugged the motor in and started the dryer and it worked with no problems. I did this several times with no problems from the motor. So here is my question (finally): could the broken fins on the fan be enough to keep the drum from turning if they were to get wedged outward and catch on something? There is definite wear and tear on the fins, in fact, a couple have been worn down on the outside. I obviously need to replace the fan, but do I need to replace the motor, too? Should I slap it back together and see how it does?
Thanks.. Sounds like the Motor might still be good, but the fins on the blower should be replaced for sure. From what you have said it sounds like the problem I am having with this Maytag Dryer I'm trying to get going. Push to start, wan't start, everything I've checked on the top, which I could get to without taking it all the way apart, shows continuity. When I got the dryer there was lint built up so bad you wouldn't believe. Took me a little over an hour to get it cleaned out. And i was using a stihl blower. I think the lint did something to the Motor to make it stop working. When i start back working on it I'm going all the way to the Motor this time to get to the heart of the problem. Will post my results when i get them. I'm really new to this sort of thing, but with the help of AppliancePartsPros.com, their forum and a little common sense i seem to be fixing these washers & dryers. This one has been the most challenging so far. But i am confident i will fix it. L8er, mboomtown.
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