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no power after short - can wax motor be doing this?
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Joined: 6/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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My bad - forgot to unplug after round 3 of disassembly when I replaced door-latch/switch assembly and managed to short it out with a screwdriver. After I reset the breaker, looked inside for blackened contacts - saw nothing, and confirmed there is still power to the door switch (continuity check with all leads removed, put together with back two wires (direct from power cable) and plugged in to check - have switched 117 VAC at this point. Otherwise, dead as a doornail. One nearby device is the actuator for the air vent - that's a wax motor (154226701) that reads open circuit whether it's extended or pressed down. The soap dispenser actuator is also a wax motor (not listed in Frigidaire's parts list, but your site lists the whole dispenser assembly as 154542104 Part Details - FRIGIDAIRE Dispenser, part number: 154542104. This dispenser's wax motor also snaps out and the end doesn't seem to move at all, also reads open circuit. Can either or both of these result in no power to the timer, etc. or is there something else I need to be looking for? (drain switch, motor connections, etc?) The wiring diagram seems to have large gaps, or else I'm missing something. Is there maybe a breaker that they forgot to mention?
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Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Check for 120VAC out of the door switches when the switches are closed and post your findings. According to the wiring diagram power to the timer comes from the door switch (black wire) and it suppose to be a hot line. Here are the break down diagrams for the Frigidaire dishwasher Model FDB635RFS5Gene.
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Joined: 6/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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Maybe my message was too long: this is what I meant by "... have switched 117 VAC..."
If I pull off the lugs to the nearer terminals on the door switch and put the meter on them, they are off with the door open and hot when it's closed, as it's supposed to do.
Whatever else is wrong, it's not the door switch and probably not the timer (bought a replacement and triedt it out today - no change.)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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Gene - We are working from the same wiring diagram and parts diagrams, the breakdowns come from the Frigidaire doc ( http://ftp.electrolux-na.com/PD...df&model=FDB635RFS5). To reiterate - there is power to the door switch, and therefore the black wire to the timer is hot, but no lights go on, no motor noises, etc. Am pretty sure the wax motor on the vent (#27 on the diagram with the timer) should show low resistance when it's pressed in, but what I've read online doesn't suggest that if this part were bad, it would give a dead dishwasher.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Views messages in topic : 9,586
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I would pull power and check continuity for both door switches. If ok I would check the white power ground connections. Also, pull the cover off the power connections box and check across the white and black wires.
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Joined: 6/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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I appreciate your wanting to be helpful, but could you please read the first message more carefully? The door switch was ruled out before I posted the first message: I have 117 VAC across the two forward terminals (front wires pulled off) when the door is closed. (The back terminals are attached to the wires that connect directly to the line cord.)
If any of you experienced service people out there know anything about when the wax motors (particularly the air vent actuator) should give open circuit vs xyz ohm resistance, that would really help me. I already guessed that the timer was my problem and was wrong on that, so before spending more time and money I at least need a believable hunch to go on. The boss is getting ugly and I need to throw her a bone.
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Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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If I may, I would start at the very begining here, start with the basics. If you are not getting any response from the machine, check wall outlet for 120. next go to the junction box, measure black to ground, should have 120v, measure white to ground should read 0volts, measure black to white should be 120v. Do the same for the door switches, black to ground 120v white to ground 0volts. Looking at the wiring diagram, and the previous posts, I suspect you have a neutral wire not connected somewhere, or broken.
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Joined: 6/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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Abadfish66, like the other two previous responders, seems not to be able to understand one basic fact - there is power after the door switch!! How the @#*† could this be true if the breaker were tripped or if the switch were bad?
I asked a question in the first post which nobody seems to be the tiniest bit interested in:
Can a bad actuator (wax motor) cause this kind of problem? (Also, am I right in assuming that the open circuit in both positions means it IS bad?).
As to the suggestion to check the wiring diagram, I've studied it, but the bundle of wires is huge - the 24-connector block on the timer uses something like 17 connections, and it's obviously a job for a pro if the only way to do it is to check all possibilities. The more realistic option at that point is to junk the dishwasher and get a new one. If, on the other hand, it can be narrowed down to a couple of likely suspects (ONES THAT MAKE SENSE AND DON'T JUST TELL ME TO DO WHAT I'VE ALREADY DONE) it might be worth some more effort.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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You asked for help and we are trying, continuity tests tell me nothing, I need voltage readings at certain spots....Forget your wax motors, those are NOT your problem. You need to find out where you lost power, and I believe we are trying to help you, and FYI it is more difficult than you may think to diagnose things over a forum. If you want to keep thinking those WAX motors are your problem, replace them and find out. If you want your dishwasher fixed, we need to rule out somethings to go forward. You came on here looking for help, we did'nt come to you.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Views messages in topic : 9,586
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Pull the panel off the dishwasher, turn the water off to it, bail the water out of the tub and start taking voltage readings across connections and switches. You will eventually find the problem without getting wet, probably a bad timer connector wire. I usually jam the plastic panel between the door and frame to facilitate this. Cursing and getting mad will do no good, just careful reasoning will. Sometimes you will spend a few hours on a problem like this. Just keep your feet out of water to protect yourself. Most probable problem is a bad door switch, motor or timer connector, or just a bad power ground wire. Post results, we are all waiting.
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no power after short - can wax motor be doing this?
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