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My Quiet Partner 3 Dishwasher is not running. The Soak&Scour button is flashing rapidly. I think it flashes 18 times, hesitates then repeats. I have cut power to the machine for at least half an hour but it does the same thing when I flip the breaker back on. I've had this issue before but I can't afford to bring a repair guy. I can follow directions fairly well. What can I do? GU2400XTS1
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I think you are missing a P. The followings is for an XTPS1 not a XTS1 as given. Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GU2400XTPS1 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208535451.pdfOften this is a stuck key (always closed). Usually trouble shot by checking the keyboard with a meter to confirm this. If the keyboard checks out OK then it is probably the control board but it is still a bit of a crap shoot. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Thanks for the links. I actually already have that tech sheet. Most of it is Greek to me. If it's the Control Board then this piece of crap is going to the curb! I'm not sinking anymore big money into this thing. I've already spent as much fixing it as I could have spent on a new one.
How can I test if the button is stuck? I have a good meter. It's the Soak and Scour button thats flashing.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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[COLOR="Blue"]How can I test if the button is stuck?[/COLOR]
Looks like Soak & Scour is P1-11 and P1-3, see the tech sheet.
Remove the ribbon cable from the control board. Place the positive lead of the meter on P1-11 and it's negative lead on P1-3. Use a fairly high meter scale, 20K should do it. If not try 200 K. You should see the ohms drop when the key is pushed. I am not sure what the ohms reading will be. So try this on a good key (normal or start) so you can see what to expect.
I do not know how much electronics you know so this may help explain things. The reason it is important to have the meter leads used noting their polarity is that you are measuring across the switch and a diode in series. A diode only passes current in one direction. So if you use the meter leads opposite to that shown when you push the key nothing will happen as the diode is basically open.
I hope I explained this OK. |
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Ok, I see where it says the P1-11 and P1-3. I never would have known what that meant. So thanks.
It took me a while to figure out how to figure out which end was P1-1. (It's labeled on the board at the base of the piece that the ribbon plugs into.) I'll try it tomorrow when I have the tester. If I'm fortunate and it is just a stuck button how can I fix it?
Thanks for your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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If I'm fortunate and it is just a stuck button how can I fix it?
I would not say fortunate as the only way to fix it is to replace the keypad (console assembly) |
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