Hello,
The test programs on the newer bosch units have caused me more trouble than good. That is, sometimes it takes me into the software coding and other times I can't get out of the program, which just adds more time to the service call.

Basically, long run times on the bosch units usually have to do with the rate at which the water is heating, if at all. Low water temps can also extend the wash times, but if nothing's changed with you water heater/water supply, then it's probably not the problem.

Does the unit finish the cycle and heat the dishes at the end? If so, the heater is getting power, but it may be less than 120vac, which will cause your amperage to drop, increasing the heating times, or your heater may be going bad and not drawing its 9-11 amps when the 120vac gets to it. At that amperage, the unit should heat at a rate of 2°f/minute, and the final rinse temp is around 160°f.

If the unit does not finish the cycle, see below.

If you turn it onto the regular wash cycle, wait until about 20 minutes after the soap cup has opened, and the water temperature has not increased, there's something wrong with either the control or heater assembly.

To determine if the control is the problem, you'll need to remove the door skin and locate the solid red wire next to the grey/black wire. After the soap cup has opened you should find 120vac between that red wire and chassis. If you do have the correct voltage, you may have a heater assembly problem. The other factors are proper water level, which would be about half-way up the round, plastic filter handle, as well as proper water pressure from the circulation pump. To check this, remove the upper rack and start the unit. If you hear a jet of water hitting the inside door panel, your pump is good.

So, in summary, the most likely culprits are the control and heater assembly, but you'll need to look for 120vac from the board to determine which one it is.

Good luck,
KC