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#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 17, 2010 3:59:28 PM(UTC)

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Joined: 3/17/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5

My Maytag has blown two thermal fuses. The first time, the lights on the control panel were still lit. When I jumpered where the fuse was, the dryer started up again so I knew I had the right fix. I had also cleaned out a mountain of lint underneath the trap so I was pretty sure I had gotten to the root of the problem.

It ran one load fine and then died at the start of the second load. This time, the lights on the control panel went out. The fuse reads as an open, again, but when I jumper it the dryer will not start up again so that's a second sign that something else has gone. Any ideas on what else to check out?
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#2 Posted : Thursday, March 18, 2010 1:31:26 AM(UTC)

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Here are your parts

Here is the wiring diagram

And a manual

As you can see from the wiring diagram the fuse should only effect the motor so you do have a second problem. Hopefully the cause of the fuse blowing did not cause an arc and blew the control board.

First check that it is getting the correct power.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord. Be careful 240 volts is lethal.

Check the door switch, could be it is not closing, This is unlikely but stranger things have happened than two faults happening at the same time.

Note: that sometimes the fuse do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.
Also check for signs that the element did not touch the inside of it's case re: an arc/weld mark. Sometimes the element will sag when hot, touch the case and then return to normal once it cools down.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the thermostat on the heater as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the thermistor resistance
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermistor on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may also want to replace the hi-limit on the blower as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).

Note : That your unit is strange in that what they call the cycling thermostat is on the heater and the hi-limit is on the blower, usually it is the other way around.
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