Hello,

I have a Frigidaire FEF365ASL range. Everything is working except the lower element. All of the stovetop burners function, the broiler element heats, the clock, timer, and everything are just fine.

I tried the bake mode as well as the self-cleaning mode to get the element to heat.

I've removed the back panel, checked all of the wiring and connections, and in the process disconnected/reconnected the power. No change.

The problem started when I was baking bread and had the oven at 350. I briefly set the temp to 450 (the bread wasn't getting the right crust), then changed my mind and set it back to 350 (didn't want to burn the bottom with the element in preheat mode). I don't know if changing the temp up and down without giving the oven time to adjust the internal temp may have had something to do with it.

Are there any fuses on the time board that I might have set off? I've priced the board and they're either spendy or out-of-stock. I'm hoping there might be another solution or more troubleshooting I can do to determine the root of the problem.

Thank you in advance for assistance!
Dan

P.S. - the bread did finish cooking in the cooling oven (-:

Here is the wiring diagram for the unit.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Springfield/316255311.pdf
Id does not show any fuses etc. in the bake element circuit.

As daniel2323 said odds are it is the element.

They are usually between 20 to 30 ohms depending on wattage.
If it measures OK and since you have already checked the wiring then you will need a control board.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

You can try that but I don't know if the broiler leads would be long enough to reach the element. You could always take it off and bring it to the back of the machine and then plug the element into the broil leads but that can be very dangerous. Best to just buy a cheap meter and check resistance. Usually you can see damage on a heating element that is bad but you need to check for sure if it's got the proper resistance. If it reads OL (out of limits) it's bad. If it reads 20-30 ohms, replace the control board like denman said. Good luck, and keep us posted.

We have model PGLEF385ES5.

The oven displayed F10 - out of control temperature. After that, the bake element is not working at all. Broil works fine.

We replaced the temperature sensor and the bake element. Still not working.

We've tested both elements, broil and bake. The broil element reads 21.1 ohms. The bake elements (both new and old) read 16.9 ohms.

Could both bottom elements be no good seeing as they don't read 20-30 ohms? Or is our next step to replace the EOC?