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Kenmore Dishwasher normal flashes and therefore washer does not work
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/24/2010(UTC) Posts: 1
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The normal light flashes and occasionally if I would leave the door open for a day it would allow me to do one round and then when I close the door after unloading back to the flashing normal. Some other lights may come on and flash if I press them but no times and the washer will not run.
After reading many posts...I'm thinking perhaps it could be a fuse or could it be the K1 - K2 or K3 replays in the control panel? I seen Gene posted some tech sheets of the control panel. I looked at the control panel no components seemed to be burned. That's what led me to believe it was may be the three relays.
What is your thought on this? If you think it may be the relays how do I remove them from the board and can they be purchased from appliancepartspros.com?
Thank you Gene or any other dishwasher technician!
We have a baby and a dishwasher is pretty important in our daily routine. Thanks you!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Here is the tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208533345.pdfCheck the keypad switches (control panel) with a meter, see the tech sheet. If OK then it is probably the control board. The individual triacs and relays are not available as separate items. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better at ordering the correct part if you can confirm that at least the keypad switches are OK. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Kenmore Dishwasher normal flashes and therefore washer does not work
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