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GE Profile Spacemaker 2.0 - New Ventilation Fan Won't Run Options Email this topic Watch this topic Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: JVM2070SK01	Brand: GE	Age: 1 - 5 years
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tabroten		#1 Posted : Tuesday, February 23, 2010 8:13:17 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 4		The ventilation fan on my JVM2070 (aka blower fan) was whining a lot recently and finally died altogether. So, I ordered a replacement ventilation motor from APP - Part 83 on their schematic, AP part# AP4344435, GE part# WB26X10217. The replacement part arrived and I installed it, but now the new fan doesn't run at all. The microwave still runs and can heat a bowl of water. I've studied the schematic and wiring diagram that came inside the unit and I think there are 3 candidate problems: 1. Motor Capacitor (part #62) 2. Thermal Cut Out (part #104) 3. Secondary Interlock - 1 on the Control Board If the problem is #2 or #3, wouldn't there be something else not working? Is there a way to determine if the Capacitor is working? Thanks! Tom


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magician59		#2 Posted : Tuesday, February 23, 2010 8:25:18 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC) Posts: 3,273		Rule out the interlock witch, if the oven is cooing. I would first chech the thermal cut off. If it's open, replace it.


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tabroten		#3 Posted : Tuesday, February 23, 2010 10:31:27 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 4		So use multi-meter to see if there are 0 volts across the terminals? There are two other wires coming into that cutoff. Is there something else that would also be cutoff if that is the problem? Also, is there a quick way to tell if the capacitor is still good? Thanks for the help! Tom


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magician59		#4 Posted : Tuesday, February 23, 2010 12:53:01 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC) Posts: 3,273		Follow your schematic to see what the two other wires are connected to. I would just disconnect one of the wires in series with your fan motor from the TCO, and check it for continuity. If you have continuity across it, it is good. Try to do as little "live" testing as possible on a microwave, because it can kill you without regard to your knowledge of electricity. Always discharge a capacitor by shorting across its terminals, no matter how small, before testing it. If you set your meter on the resistance scale, place the leads on the terminals of the capacitor. You will notice some action (don't try to interpret it). Reversing the leads should produce another reading. With a DMM, the readings will be very fleeting. If you don't get the reading, the cap is bad and should be replaced. Some DMMs have a capacitor test mode. Consult the instructions that came with your meter.


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