My Whirlpool dryer model #LER4634BQ1 wont heat up. I checked the thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat, thermal cutout, and heating element terminals, all have continuity. The plug at the wall checked out at delivering 240v. Stumped here any ideas where to go with this. Maybe refer me to information on checking the controls/timer.

On my timer switch the red, black, and blue all tested at zero. The violet tested at 10, and the orange at 5, and then the black/white and black TM point at 2. That was with switch set at mid position, about 40 min on timed cycle. What do you think?

[COLOR="Blue"]On my timer switch the red, black, and blue all tested at zero. The violet tested at 10, and the orange at 5, and then the black/white and black TM point at 2. That was with switch set at mid position, about 40 min on timed cycle. What do you think?[/COLOR]
It looks normal but I do not think I explained how to check the circuit properly.
With Unit unplugged and one meter lead taped to Black (L!) at the timer or on the line cord.
Measure to the RED (TIMER SWITCH 2) on the timer, should be 0 ohms.
If OK
Measure to the RED on the Thermal CUTOUT, should be 0 ohms
If OK
Measure to the RED/WHITE on the THERMAL CUTOUT, should be 0 ohms
If OK
Measures to the RED/WHITE on the OPERATING THERMOSTAT, should be 0 ohms
If OK
Measure to the RED on the OPERATING THERMOSTAT, should be 0 ohms
If OK
Measure to the RED on the OPERATING THERMOSTAT, should be 0 ohms
If OK
Measure to the RED on the HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT, should be 0 ohms
IF OK
Measure to the far side on the HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT, color not shown, should be 0 ohms.
IF OK
Measure to the HI LIMIT side of the HEATER, should be 0 ohms
If OK
Measure to the far side of the HEATER, should be 10 ohms approximately.

Basically you have then checked the HEATER circuit through the entire machine.
All that is left is the centrifugal switch on the motor and the wires from the switch to the heater and the switch to L2


[COLOR="Blue"]Further testing reveals that there is not 240v to the heating element when on and running in timer mode. There is 120 to the red/white wire, the solid red wire is dead, it is the one that runs back under the bulkhead into the cabinet. Would that go to the drive motor switch?[/COLOR]
Cannot comment as I need to know where the meter leads are.
Also which red there are quite a few of them in the heater circuit.

Sounds like your heater is blown.
Remove both wires to the coil and measure it.
Should be around 10 ohms.

with the wires disconnected the heater shows it has continuity. It did not read 10 ohms, the needle swung all the way over.
This may just be due to the meter scale setting. For instance if the meter is set to a 2000 ohm scale it will show a dead short for 10 ohms as it cannot resolve it.
[COLOR="Blue"]
The circuit from L1 to the red/white wire showed continuity, to the solid red wire it did not.[/COLOR]
Not sure which RED wire you are referring to.

[COLOR="Blue"]The circuit from L2 did not show continuity to either wire. Both of these were tested with the timer set to mid position on timed dry cycle.[/COLOR]
You will not see any continuity to the heater etc. from the L2 side. This is because of the centrifugal switch (2M/1M) on the motor. This switch is only closed when the motor is turning.

I am assuming that the testing was done with one lead held on the L1 connection all the time.
So if you see continuity to the RED/WHITE between the THERMAL CUTOFF and OPERATING THERMOSTAT then you know that the THERMAL CUTOFF is OK.
If you then loose continuity at the RED wire between the OPERATING THERMOSTAT and the HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT, then this tell you that the OPERATING THERMOSTAT is open and needs replacing.

[COLOR="Blue"]
On a previous test with the dryer plugged in to the outlet and running at mid cycle of timed dry, L1 at the block showed 110v, L2 showed 110v. Together they showed 240v.[/COLOR]
This looks good.

The heater when tested showed 110v on the red/white wire, (shown as L1 in the diagram), there was no power at the red wire that runs back under the bulkhead (shown as L2 on the diagram).
When doing a live test trying to use the ground/unit's frame can get confusing as the heater circuit is purely a 240 volt circuit and does not rely on ground.
I will try to explain this hopefully it will make sense.
If you measure 110 volts at the left side of the heating coil. This could be the L1 side of the line. Then if you see 0 volts on the right hand side of the coil it indicates that the heater is open as you should see the voltage on both sides. Now for the kicker even if the the coil is open you should see 110 volts on the right side as you should be seeing the 110 volts from the L2 side of the line.
So using the unit's frame as a test point can get you going in circles.

Something is very weird here.
Unplug the unit and if this is a 3 wire hook up check that there is a ground strap from the center connector (Neutral) to the machines frame.
If yes then check with a meter to ensure that there is continuity and the unit is properly grounded.