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Everything coming out with white film baked on. Tried "watching" thru cycle and after five minutes still said heating water. I ran hot water in sink til hottest. No water at all in dishwasher after five minutes. Could use link to manual as well as any thoughts or suggestions from pros on here. Thanks
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/19/2009(UTC) Posts: 17
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oooh quick update...I started it again and now right away water in tub....
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/19/2009(UTC) Posts: 17
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Update: ran thru the cycle three times this weekend to try to see what I have going on. Two times the DW started fine but sat "heating the water" for 5 minutes then 10+ minutes. Each cycle seemed very long overall. Not sure how long it should last from start to finish. While it was in "delay, heating water" mode I kept opening it anc checking water temp. Never did get very hot. The one time it worked fine (but entire cycle seemed long) the water was very hot and when I opened it to check it steamed out. Ok...any ideas? Thanks
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Could not find any tech info using the model number so the following is a bit of a guess https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/d387c10d7170b7b9852571e0006e9b3e/$FILE/4322451L.pdfCheck the thermostats with a meter they should be attached to the tub under the unit. Check the heating element with a meter. If it has a heater off/on button check that switch. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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